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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Thanks guys! Wrestled the motor/trans/tcase back in tonight, for the last time (hopefully).

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 6:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Rear trans mount done. Would have liked a bit more height so the nuts are easier to install, but rear ds angle would have suffered for it. 4L80E mount sits back 10" more than the SM420 that was in there before.

Next up, finish installing the stainless braided PTFE fuel lines, route a new longer rear brake hard line and finish up bump stops for rear coils. After that I'm dangerously close to placing the tub back on the frame.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
I have alot of work ahead of me, but good progress has been made in the hunt and removal of floor pan rust. All immediate problem areas of the driver side have been identified and most has been removed this afternoon. I'm going to save as much original sheet metal on the driver side of the tub as possible, because it's not too bad.

My high speed die grinder is invaluable in the hunt for rusty thin sheet metal. Just let it eat its way through suspect, pin holed sheet metal till it bites into real steel. There's no question about when you get into the good stuff. It's very satisfying watching the rusty sheet metal turn into a cloud of dust when the bit rips into it haha.

In the last pic it shows the driver front tub mount. Pass side same same. I'll be repairing that for sure. Not cool.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:01 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Welding on 40 year old sheet metal is unpleasant to say the least, but I'm gettin' it done. Drivers side wrapped up. Not gonna win any awards for floor pan beauty, but it will hold. On to passenger side where I'm really gonna learn to hate floor pan repair. Much more extensive repair required.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 10:35 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Passenger side front done less seam seal. Pass rear up next..............

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
I installed the drive line parking brake. I love the build quality, but I'm not totally in love with it for a few reasons. Mainly I don't particularly care for the chintzy spacers to locate the caliper bracket. I just think that could have been done better, especially for the price, but I'm not sure how and beggars can't be choosers. It's not like I was going to put in the time to design my own and build it. 2nd, this device will likely rip the whole tail-housing off the t-case if used abruptly in an emergency stopping situation. Lastly, the caliper bracket is drilled for a factory install orientation. I've clocked my 241 nearly flat so there will be issues getting the cable to line up perfect. Oh well, it is what it is and it's certainly tolerable. I now have a parking brake where before I had nothing.

P.S. The bolt that looks installed crooked is just sitting loosely in its hole.
It's a driveline bolt temp installed for reference. Pics...

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 4:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Did a double take on the install I did yesterday and I had the caliper bracket flipped around backwards. This part comes without instructions.
You must have common sense and I'm short on that. Now things fit much better and the strength is up to design intent. It's still not an emergency brake (IMO), but it's damn sure a great parking brake!! I flipped the cable lever around so I can pull from the passenger side. Pulling from the driver side was going to interfere with the exhaust pipes.

Pic shows the proper caliper bracket orientation with mitered holes toward tcase. You can also see how close the driveline bolt heads are to the caliper bolt heads. I'll be shaving those driveline bolts heads down a little to widen the gap. The driveline bolts install from the bottom. You can't see, but there is room to get a wrench on them without too much trouble.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 3:14 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Things have escalated on the pass side panel. Found crinkled sheetmetal and rot under 1/2" thick wall of bondo. I had a feeling I'd find that because I could see the sheetmetal pushed in when I was burning in the new floor pan earlier. Oh well. Nothing my angle grinder can't help me out with. Pics...

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 1:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Now I'm working on the parking brake cable. Got the brake end of it hooked up. I'm splicing together some old e-brake cables I found out in my garden shed.

Made a couple brackets. One from 1/8" angle and the other is just 3/16" by 1" wide strap.

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Then this shows how the angle iron bracket installs to one of the rear output bearing retainer housing bolts. I spaced it out with a nut. The nub at the top of the case required a little shave for clearance as the following pics show.

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All hooked up at rest.

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Brake applied. Just enough clearance. Good enough geometry for my standards. I'm gonna shave the nub some more.

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Up unda shows an interesting perspective. And that's as far as I got so far, but it's another hurdle I'm over.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 7:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Another system completed. Aside from coating the frame, re-installing the exhaust and finishing the rust removal in the tub, there's nothing else to prevent installation of the tub. That's coming soon.

For those interested, the drive line brake cable is all routed, hooked up and adjusted (as good as I can without the tub installed). Pics below show how I spliced two e-brake cables together. Are there better ways? Yeah, but I felt like saving a little money. Just used 1/8" wire rope swage ferrules I bought from Home Depot for $4 and made brackets to mount the cable conduit out of scraps I had laying around.

I re-used the factory cable tension adjuster. I also re-used the factory return spring and added an additional return spring which can be seen in the first and second pic. I tried to keep this system as simple as possible and I do believe I achieved my goal. The plastic zip ties will be coming off. Or will they?

Vid of entire cable run





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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Operation cut out the rust is still ongoing. Progress has been made. Far from a restoration, unconventional methods and a little hack, but rot is going away one area at a time. Seam seal is my best friend and Herculiner will hide my sins. Pics...

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2018 9:22 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Pics below of where I got too yesterday. Firewall got 1 wet coat of epoxy primer and 5 medium wet coats of single stage light gray. The paint color nearly matched the primer color haha. It's lighter than I hoped. Oh well, I like it well enough. Exterior will be flame red. Brightest red I could find.

Next I'll focus on getting the front half of the tub on and firing the engine, getting it to move under it's own power. I want to leak check and operationally check all systems B4 covering everything up with the rest of the tub. Easier to fix anything I did wrong haha.

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Winters Sidewinder 4L80E shifter is temp installed just to see how well it works. Will be fabricating a center console to mount it as well as the t-case shifter. Installation was remarkably easy and shifting through the gears is exact/precise. Very little effort to get it working correct. All the geometry is correct with the cable and brackets. Very happy. I also installed the micro-switch kit that gives Park and Neutral safety, plus a micro-switch for reverse lights as well. Sorry about the shaky video. I was trying to do too many things, needed one more hand. You can see how the shifter operates though. Very simple. I love it.



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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 1:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
So today I installed a JB Custom Fabrication NP241C cable shifter on the heep. Had it been a factory install it would have gone swimmingly, however, that is not what transpired.

Due to the t-case being clocked nearly flat, the bracketry at the t-case didn't have any chance of functioning. Not even close. Had to employ some "get it done" attitude and modify it to work. After a little head scratching about which way to go with this I decided to just weld the brackets together in a way the geometry is optimized. Added a small piece of scrap to stiffen things up and done.

Yesterday I wrapped the exhaust in a way to protect the trans and trans shifter cable from cat con heat and just general exhaust heat. Yes, it will shorten the exhausts pipes life, as well as the cat cons, but I'm willing to sacrifice their life span rather than the 4L80E. I'm interested in how long those cats and pipes will last wrapped with those sponges. We will have to wait and see what happens on that. Pics...



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 8:37 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Making progress... Fwd half of body is back on for good. Fit's up against the LS like a glove. A little too tight for my liking, but I'll learn to live with it. Not much on the backside of the engine to ever need attention. The 2 sensors back there are accessible with the intake manifold off, so no big deal.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 5:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Replacing some more rotten sheet-metal on the back half. Going back to standard wheel openings in the rear.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:08 am
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Location: Way up North.
Vehicle: '51 Power Wagon
Dude, thats a lot of sheetmetal work :thumbsdown: Looking good though. Nice progress!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2018 8:31 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Thanks JB. Yeah I really stepped in it with the sheet metal work. When I’d go to replace one rotted piece of metal I’d find more rot underneath and I just couldn’t let it be. I’ve gotten to the bottom of it now. Should stay nice for awhile after it’s done.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Heep got new wheels and tires today. 37X12.50X17" Cooper Discoverer STT Pro's. Side by side they were a little taller and fatter than the old 38" TSL's that I was running. No beadlocks for now. 5 yrs from now I'm going tons, so I'll get beadlocks at that time.

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Last edited by Tipped on Sat Sep 29, 2018 12:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
About got the passenger side rear quarter panel area wrapped up. Ran out of time for today, but made good progress.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Passenger side rear quarter done. Drivers side quarter nearly done. Next is flip the rear section upside down and paint underside of wheel tubs with rust bullet. Then rear shock mounts, replace rear cross-member, finish coil spring bucket install and work on trailer hitch. Lots more after that...

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Chief Wahoo rear cross-member initial fit up underway. Really happy with that purchase. With the rear half of the tub off again I can finish installing the rear springs and final weld everything on the rear axle. 2 steps back, 1 step forward.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Sprayed some Rust Bullet through my gun today. Love how that stuff lays down. Almost impossible to run it. Used a 1.6 mm nozzle in the gun, because that's all I had. Used it unreduced. Worked great, no issues. Burned through 1 quart of product in a single coat on rear xmbr and inside both wheel wheels.

Pics...

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 4:03 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Been working on bump stops/spring retainers for the rear coils. After some serious head scratching I had an idea yesterday morning, so I went to Home Depot and bought some 2" dia schedule 40 pipe and caps. $20 bill for materials. I like to save money when I can.

Best part of this, cap unscrews, allows access to lower spring retainer bolt head. I forgot to snap pics of what I did with upper spring retainer. Was very simple. Just welded the bolt that passes through the black OE TJ bump stop retainer, then pressed the red poly bump stop into it. That allows me to hold the red poly bump stop/retainer while I wrench the nut down up top with my other hand.

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Last edited by Tipped on Sat Sep 29, 2018 12:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
This is where the bump stop height ended up haha. Not much left of that tube, but I'm still able to thread the cap on and off. Flexed it out today to see how well the poly lands the cap. Not terrible. 2" more till coil bind, but the limiting factor was upper link to xmbr clearance. I wanted to leave between 1/2" and 3/4" clearance there. Anyhow pics...

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Up close flexed landing. Not terrible. I could add a 1/4" thick plate shroud to the cap to increase it's diameter enough for a safety margin, but with the coils smashed real tight at this point I don't think the poly is really wanting to slip off the edge of the cap.

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I do have some alignment issues I need to fix. Just eyeballed lower coil mount location months ago. Not bad IMO. They're just tack welded. I'll move 'em after I get the jeep mostly finished and fully loaded with all my shit to see how well I guessed pinion angle and all that. I'll fix it then.

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Last edited by Tipped on Sat Sep 29, 2018 12:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 6:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Ebay dual diaphragm booster/master cyl install complete. Had to bend the brake lines a bit to line up, but original tube nuts fit the master without adapters. Pic...

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Aprox 1.5" clearance to 6.0 liter LS. That'll do.

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Only thing not just right was the plastic bushing that fit's the brake peddle. Loose. Vid shows that and the geometry, which is good. Cotter pin to be installed after crappy plastic bushing replaced with bronze bushing and firewall grommet installed.


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Last edited by Tipped on Sat Sep 29, 2018 12:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2018 5:11 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Made floor fill in panels. Added a support channel and two new body mounts for some support. Too flimsy without. Now just gotta weld 'em in today. Then on to side panels. Almost have one whole Jeep again yay!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 1:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Floor welded in, less the hole I made for a fuel cell years ago. I'm just gonna seal and pop rivet a panel over top that so I have easy access to the fuel filter, upper link bolts and brake lines.

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It ain't perfect, but it'll work. No metal brake (I fawking wish). Just a couple hammers, cheap ass harbor freight vice, raw determination and various bits of heavy wall tubing/angle iron for something to beat it against.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
Posts: 374
Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Got one whole tub now. Almost ready for filler, direct to metal polyester high build primer, sealer and color. Gotta do it b4 temps drop. I'm gonna Herculine the whole inside of the tub after I shoot it with epoxy primer.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:51 am 
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Location: Reno, NV
Vehicle: '04 Jeep LJ, '72 Toyota FJ40 LandCRAWLer
I glanced at your pics of the complete tub and my first thought was "clear the whole thing" and leave it as is. It's going to be a rolling tribute to patience and saving the rig.

Looking forward to the finish line. :cool:

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