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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 6:28 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Anyone use the tub crossmember for a rear center limit? I wanted to use the frame by the gas tank but the track bar would foul the upper mount at full stuff...

Like post 7 in this link:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/limit-straps-1182077/


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:25 am 
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Soy una gran cosa
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Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:08 am
Posts: 8082
Location: Way up North.
Vehicle: '51 Power Wagon
Yeah, I used the center crossmember on my YJ for a limit strap. It's pretty thin if I remember right, so I welded on a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" plate to reinforce it.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:48 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
JB wrote:
Yeah, I used the center crossmember on my YJ for a limit strap. It's pretty thin if I remember right, so I welded on a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" plate to reinforce it.


Thanks JB, did you reinforce it all the way across or just like 6" to spread the load a bit? I might use angle iron to give it some section width too.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:53 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:08 am
Posts: 8082
Location: Way up North.
Vehicle: '51 Power Wagon
I looked through my pictures to see what I did, but I didn't find one that showed it. I know that I didn't go all the way across. Maybe 12-16" to spread the load out.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:30 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Just realized the pic I linked doesn't show what I thought it did, haha. Somehow I missed the fact that the link shows a very stretched rear axle.

Did you use the gas tank crossmember or the reinforcement in the tub just forward of that? I know... I need a picture to explain what I'm asking better...


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 5:53 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Fenders wrapping up, just need to cut the inner rubber to size and repaint the part that shows- did too much welding not bolted up and one pulled a bit, had to move it back with a jack.

First time its been out of the garage in a while, blew the cv joint on the rear ds on the first time around the block. I'm guessing I let it hang on the ds at some point during the shock remount.

I'm pretty happy with how it came out, got too aggressive on hood trimming at the front on one side so my OCD will probably cause me to over trim the other as well, haha.

Image
Image


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 4:56 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Made some more progress...

Put a bunch of holes in the coil insert progressive bumpstops to soften them up, with only 1.5" air gap in 6" of up travel I'm not surprised. Didn't take pictures when I had them out to drill... :/

Took it in to those guys rod and customs for a family cage minus the rear spreader(so rear passengers are still viable). Verrry impressed by quality, price, and turnaround by those guys(har har).

Built a low profile cold air intake-4" all the way to the sc, and cut lots of holes in the hood, haha. Also changed the tune from a piggy back to a 2 bar map sct/jtec tune by flyinryan... drives beautifully and makes smoother power. The piggy back did *just ok until I stuck the 75mm northstar tb on it, then it couldn't handle the changes needed. With the flyinryan tune on jtec it drives like stock-just with more, haha.

Soon to come, water/meth injection too cool the intake charge down, and then it should be ready to pile some miles on...

Image
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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 5:06 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Also went out to tahuya to make sure there weren't any kinks in the new shock setup and got stupid... my buddy who pulled me out will never let me forget this.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 2:10 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Made a silly move and went to 35's... 33's seemed just a little short for 4.88's on the freeway and it was built with 34/35's in mind, at least that's what I'm telling myself. That and I couldn't let my buddy Brian possibly be able to make it somewhere I couldn't- thanks Brian, jerk...

The front fenders get rubbed a little but can still be spun by hand when I did a clearance check. The rears required a decent amount of tub trimming, and the passenger shock rubs at full articulation. I'm considering a hubcentric 1/4 to 1/8" spacer to eliminate this.

Due to the shock mounting I had to go with a 8" wide, 3" backspace wheel. I did a bunch of math to figure out how badly that affects the scrub radius and nearest I can tell it went from about a 1" scrub to a 3" scrub radius. Not great, but its actually better on paper and in drive testing than the 1.25" spacered moabs I was running before.

Also made a tire carrier since the stock one would work any longer, and "had" to go to a cj tailgate because I used the factory tailgate holes for my tire carrier.

Added a few pics of the floating bump stops I'm using now, they're still a little stiff so I pretty much never hit full bump-usually leaves about 1" per corner of travel left unused. I *think I just need to drill more holes in the prothanes to soften them, but it might also be the inner "hard" stop binding in their holes instead of sliding. Had to go to the floating bump stops in the front because the bump stop towers were pinching the coils on the axle "c" and catching on the coils in general. At full articulation the springs have a tiny bit of compression on the droop side and are not quite coil bound on the other.

Pics:
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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 4:15 pm 
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Pimp

Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2008 10:47 am
Posts: 6983
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Vehicle: Tee-jay
Looks really good! Have you trimmed up the rear wheel well to the inner well yet? You can get about an inch and a half more tire clearance.

Be careful of hanging too much weight on the tub. I never had cage tie ins in the rear. I drove it pretty hard sometimes, but even without armor and a tire hanging off the body, the body mounts pushed the floor up some.

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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 4:51 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Thanks Paul. Cage isn't tied to the frame yet, I'll keep an eye on the body mounts. I want aluminum corners eventually which should stiffen it significantly. This tire/wheel combo is "only" 90lb, which I think is pretty good for 35's. The basset dot wheels are helping out there. And the bfg is purposefully different-lightest full size spare I could find. The spare is under 80 I think.

Have 1/2" of lip to the tub with as much clearance as pictured. Think I'll need a mudflap on the street? Only 7" of tire hangs out, ha!


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 5:49 pm 
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Pimp

Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2008 10:47 am
Posts: 6983
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Vehicle: Tee-jay
If you want coverage, I trimmed all the way to the inner well, and was able to redrill the holes for the stock flare.

You can see it raised here:
Image

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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 6:25 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
My stock flares went to a friend already. I was thinking of doing a set of flares to mirror the front to keep mud out of the cab and make quick detach flaps to keep the law away.

That does look pretty good but would leave another 3.5" tire uncovered, would that be good enough?


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 6:32 pm 
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Pimp

Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2008 10:47 am
Posts: 6983
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Vehicle: Tee-jay
Around here I think any flare will keep the LEOs off your back. Can't say up there though.

It would look real good if you could mirror the front.

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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:04 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
So once again after sitting in the garage for a bit, the rear driveshaft died right out the gate. I caught it before it died like the last one but not by much.

Took it to dan at d&d, never asked for him to warranty the driveshaft-he rebuilt it last time, but he didn't even ask to look at the install before he said he'd take care of it! He looked at my setup anyway just because I asked, and didn't see any issues. So I went ahead and ordered a custom front driveshaft so I can have my stock front as a spare/plus the front was oem with 200k miles so I figured it was due. Incidentally, driving around on the truetrac front was interesting-it locks up much more than I expected it to-turns at stop signs result in a fair amount of tire squeal, and stuffing the gas made it want to arbitrarily steer itself.

Bottom line, for port orchard area drivelines I solidly recommend D&D.


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 9:28 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
So, I'm looking at adding prp seats and belts, and I've got a question...

My "harness bar" in my cage by those guys rod and customs looks just like this:

http://home.comcast.net/~thoseguys/offroad/roll-cages/jeep-cjyjtj-cages/tj-cage-wprp-seats--belts-3.html

The reading I've done says that the harness bar should be 0-10 degrees down from the shoulders... and these are a good bit past 20. A lot of the cages those guys build look like this and it seems to be a somewhat common mounting. Can I duplicate this or is it a safety concern?


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 1:12 pm 
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Im not a player, I just post alot.
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Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 2:53 pm
Posts: 1017
Location: Tualatin
Vehicle: 2005 LJ
If you do standard height seats with your factory sliders (they are a bitch to get off of your factory seats). You should be able to add a tube from the cross bar to the main hoop.


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 2:34 pm 
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Im not a player, I just post alot.
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Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 2:53 pm
Posts: 1017
Location: Tualatin
Vehicle: 2005 LJ
This is what I ended up doing. ImageImage


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 5:06 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Thanks for posting pics... I don't have seats yet, but I'm pretty positive i'll have to do something like that. Paul I'm not in love with cutting the b pillar diagonal and horizontal out, and DMetzler's design still allows backseat access (I know I should just give up on that but we still occasionally carry a full 4 people).

I decided to go after another project I've been putting off... Tied the A pillar into the frame, and A pillar foot to the rocker guard. Semi-soft mounted with a 3/4" rubber spacer to the frame. Will be doing similar from the rear shock tower to the C pillar foot, and probably just tieing the B pillar to the rocker guard with 1/4" plate since its already on a body mount.


Its hard to see, but there a plate sandwiching the body that has a jog to catch the rocker guard. Built myself a brake for the press to bend the plate, should have done that a looong time ago!
Image
bolts go in those two holes in the rocker...
Image
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don't worry... those two bolts got replaced with grade 8 haha.


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 5:26 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Dmetzler wrote:
This is what I ended up doing. ImageImage


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Where did you buy your seats and did you buy the adaptor brackets or build your own mounts? Sorry if its posted somewhere, did a cursory search and didn't find it.


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 6:03 pm 
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Im not a player, I just post alot.
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Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 2:53 pm
Posts: 1017
Location: Tualatin
Vehicle: 2005 LJ
theremikegoes wrote:
Dmetzler wrote:
This is what I ended up doing. ImageImage


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Where did you buy your seats and did you buy the adaptor brackets or build your own mounts? Sorry if its posted somewhere, did a cursory search and didn't find it.

I ordered them from Pat (those guys). They were delivered directly to my house. I used the factory sliders and built adapters (PRP adapters are about $100 per seat) out of 1x2 angle. The seat mounts were a bit of a pain to get off of the seats. Building the adapters was not that big of a deal. I got standard width seats and I wouldn't have been able to fit the wide seats. I ordered the PRP competition seats. Extra tall and added heated seat pads that I ordered off amazon. I also ordered PRP 5.3 harnesses.


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 5:13 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Used a turd to polish a turd today... cut a tube off of a d35 with trashed gears and then cut the tube in half length wise. Then welded that across the bottom of the hp30 and threw a scrap bend across the pig-welded at lca, pig, and long side tube. Pretty much no loss of ground clearance because my steering is lower than the axle tube. Maybe it will help keep the long side tube from being quite as wiggly or likely to bend? Had zero room on top of the axle because of the motor/uptravel.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 9:37 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Rebuilt my front trac bar, the first one was a metalcloak with a 1.5x.250 dom extension. It worked but the bends werent quite right so it rubbed a little and was weaker than I felt comfy with. Made a new one out of a stick of 1.5x.250 DOM and ruff stuff 7/8 heims, now it has less aggressive bends and only has a very small rub at full lock combined with full compression-touches the clamp on the steering dampener and rotates the bar on the heims by about 1/16. working on a hdpe washer to keep the bar held so it wont flop/rub. Since I made a new one before the old trac bar failed now I have a spare as well. For any that are wondering the diff cover is a teraflex with a little grinding done-offers really good clearance for the upper heim, I would almost say better than stock after a little love.
Image
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I'm considering adding a 1.5" tube across the frame behind the rad to add stiffness for the upper trac bar mount, is that worth while or am I just adding unnecessary weight?


Last edited by theremikegoes on Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 11:21 pm 
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Needy Fucker
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Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:08 am
Posts: 32796
Location: WA
Vehicle: '12 Moo
I added one of those braces on my last rig (XJ) and it definitely made a noticeable difference. It might be more fruitful on an XJ than a framed rig, but I felt it was well worth the minimal weight gain.

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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 9:31 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
My power steering pump has started whirring a bit, I put new fluid and some lucas power steering stuff in it about a year ago and it quieted it down until now.

So I'm weighing options and would like some input:

New stock pump ~200ish?

PSC remote aluminum reservoir/ported pump kit $500
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/95-06-4-0 ... p-kit.html

PSC direct replacement aluminum reservoir/ported pump kit $450
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/97-06-4-0 ... rvoir.html

Howe pump/reservoir/filter/cooler/fittings ~1150

The PSC kits or stock pump I would add a cooler to, I have a 4 pass tube/fin trans fluid cooler I was considering repurposing.

I don't know if I'll ever go ram assist on this jeep, but I don't want to be angry at myself later for not replacing with a ram capable pump. In my head I had committed to doing the Howe kit until I saw numbers on paper added up...

Pretty sure this jeep will stay at 35's, the next size up would require re-doing pretty much everything I've built so I don't see that happening(bigger tires would crash into shocks/body hard and I'd lose all the uptravel I worked hard to keep).

Penny for anyone's thoughts?

Edit: this turned out to be a bad idler bearing on my air compressor... sounded just like a bad ps pump to me until I used a "stethoscope" aka screwdriver. I'm going to just add a ps cooler and live with not steering in rocks for a while.


Last edited by theremikegoes on Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:40 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
I've been trying different rear springs trying to find a 1-1.5" lift spring that would support 12" of shock travel and finally found a winner. The JK "55" spring was an almost at just under 2' of lift, and the RC 2.5's netted me a true 2.5. Due to my relocated rear spring perches I needed less of a "lift" in the rear than the 2" lift I get out of the RC 2.5" front springs. Finally I came to a Moog 5379 after staring at a spring chart for a while.

Also, after checking shock travel use at Tahuya I realized I was wasting 1.5" of up travel (yes it cycles fine with no springs). I'm hoping the softer spring lets it actually use the travel now.

Moog 5379
ID: 5.57". Bar Diameter: 0.56". Spring Rate: 122.00 Lbs Per Inch. Load: 760.00 Lbs. Installation Height: 8.50". Free Height: 14.75". End Type 1: Pigtail. End Type 2: Pigtail. Spring Type: Constant Rate

My perch to perch height is 9", with just over 5" of up travel as measured at the bump stop-with 5" up in the front as well its pretty dang balanced. The moog 5379 is just a little longer than the RC spring free length, and was a direct fit-would be for stock as well.


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:31 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Odd question, but at what point does a gas charged shock add to spring rate? Compressing the fox 2.0's pretty much requires a jack to compress more than an inch or two-unless you can put full body weight on them. Seems to me they would add a not insignificant amount to the overall spring rate...?


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 12:51 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
added a power steering cooler, used this:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/746/P ... fgodiZwAVA

pretty nice piece for the price, came with cad plated fittings and has internal fins as well. Mounted it in on the flat sheet metal next to the radiator.
Image


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 2:33 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Ordered a set of 14" fox 2.0 factory series smooth bodies from Alltech with "Wayne sauce" tune today... because racecar.

The fronts are 1/2" shorter than that what is installed so I may or may not move the lower mounts. The rear will be 1.5" longer since I'm going 12->14" so I'll have to move the lower mounts accordingly. A rear driveline saver limit strap will need to go in with the new shocks for sure, haha. Set of 14" and 12" fox IFP performance series may be going up in the for sale soon, just too stiff for me except when being whaled on.

Also finally added a track bar frame brace after watching a vid posted of how much the mount moves during normal driving, and seeing a few busted off-think I saw one of those on this board. I was able to notice the difference nearly right out of my driveway. Between that and the red head steering box its never been more wobble free.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 10:37 am 
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Newbie

Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:08 am
Posts: 16
Location: land of defuncted reactors
theremikegoes wrote:
Semi-soft mounted with a 3/4" rubber spacer to the frame.

Image
Image
don't worry... those two bolts got replaced with grade 8 haha.


Little old but, how is this working? Have any problems with the bolts coming loose?
I see this design now and then and it scares the crap out of me.
The vibration damping that rubber allows also allow the bolts to come out of tension. Even if the rubber compress only .040", that bolt is now loose and not holder the cage where it should be. This could allow one edge of the foot to slice thru the body or even break bolts because they aren't clamping correctly.

Just my opinion.
James

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