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 Post subject: TJ mild build...
PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 12:01 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Usually hang out on jeepforum, figure I'm more likely to find local people on this site though. Been building for long enough, time to get it out there!
Build threads over there:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/low-h ... e-1515491/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/mix- ... j-1454745/
Current poser shot:
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the cj on 40's is my buddy's from CA

And today's work- installed CB by the 4wd shifter, tuned a firestick, and finished the engine skid:
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Didnt have a wide enough piece of sheet-thus the seam, turned out stronger though since I backed the seam with a piece of 1" .120 angle. Driver side has a 3/4 solid square rod up to the engine mount, passenger ties into the lca mount. Frame is 1" .120 angle except for the driver side leg which is 1.5" .120 round tube, sheeted with 1/8 or 3/16 I had laying around. Passed the "lift with a jack" test just fine, haha. Future upgrade might be to sheet the whole thing with uhmw if I can come by some for cheap.

Hope to see some of you guys out on the trails, more build pics to come as I break stuff or get the itch to build.


Last edited by theremikegoes on Tue Jun 10, 2014 5:46 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 2:42 pm 
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whew, finally
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Port Angeles
Vehicle: 99TJ 2.5L 5spd 2.5" OME 1"BL D44/D30 locked 4.56 gears (should have gone deeper) lots of other mods.
This site is also nicer because its not owned by F'n Autoguide. They are taking the personality out of the forum communities one by one. And it seems to me like JF crashes and freezes all the time now.

welcome to the board and do I spy some re worked lower front shock mounts? If so can we get a close up? I need to do something to mine.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 2:55 pm 
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whew, finally
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Port Angeles
Vehicle: 99TJ 2.5L 5spd 2.5" OME 1"BL D44/D30 locked 4.56 gears (should have gone deeper) lots of other mods.
nevermind the shock pics I found it in your build thread. I might steal your ideas unless you tell me you hate them or something.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:29 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
No issues... someday maybe I'll make full welded mounts but it's worked great and was suuuuper easy. Next time I bother reworking it'll probably be to go coil over, haha.

I see what you mean about personality... I saw a funny thing that this forum changes "y o u r m o m" to "my mom" -hilarious!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:35 pm 
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whew, finally
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Port Angeles
Vehicle: 99TJ 2.5L 5spd 2.5" OME 1"BL D44/D30 locked 4.56 gears (should have gone deeper) lots of other mods.
exactly the kind of thing I love about the forums I choose to join. Thanks for the feedback! :thumbsup:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 7:32 pm 
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Never go full Rich-ard
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Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:08 am
Posts: 35926
Location: Auburn, WA
Vehicle: V8 TJ
theremikegoes wrote:
I saw a funny thing that this forum changes "y o u r m o m" to "my mom" -hilarious!


Some of that stuff has been here so long I forget it even happens. :roflmao:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 3:37 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Pretty stoked on this one... read that the space behind the right rear wheel is empty on earlier tjs. Semi copied this from someone else, but I think mine came out better :smt077:

Made a template for the 'floor' piece I had to make in case some one wants a head start, its pretty easy to jam cardboard in and trim to get the fit you want though.

Accidently on purpose the door cant be opened if the gate isn't open... that was an unexpected bonus.

Had to stack 2 small washers under the hinges so the door would evenly squish the foam and clear the seat mount.

Pics:
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oh, and save the two rubber grommets from the piece you cut out, they fill two holes in the 'floor' nicely


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 5:25 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
So I've noticed the rear has been riding crappy... about since I adjusted alignment and didn't pull springs to check clearance. Today I pulled springs and checked, track bar was hitting in the middle at like 2.5" compressed from ride height. I also did a tummy tuck and didn't do anything with my spring perches-I'm sure that's not helping spring rate. Sitting on the hard stops I've got 3/4" additional up travel before anything hits-including shocks (rotating the axle changed my shock mounting and gave me more than I initially built for oddly enough)

Can I move the upper perches to where I need without adding ride height? Right now I'm 2.5" RE front with no isolator and h&R rear and its llike 1/4" higher in the rear. If my clearance issue doesn't improve ride i'll go to 2.5 all around and add a 3/4" spacer in front. Either way the idea is that i'll never be using very high lift springs.

I *think the answer is to tilt the lowers forward because its not an issue of tall springs causing arcing, just asking because I've seen a lot of builds that move the upper perch. I feel like I'd get the best results from making the lower parallel to the upper at full bump...

Opinions :???:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 6:48 pm 
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Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Vehicle: Tee-jay
If you cut them off and rotate them flat, it's like a 1/4 inch lift.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 7:22 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Thanks for the tip Paul. Does it matter which end I correct at this axle position?

The diff is about 1/2' or less from the savvy gas tank skid and I don't plan to push it any further.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 8:30 pm 
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Way easier to move the top. Plus if you rotate the bottom you'll probably have shock interference.

You can cut them off with a die grinder/dremel. No need to remove anything either. Just time consuming. You'll have to trim the one side for the track bar mount.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 8:31 pm 
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What track bar do you have? There's a bracket you can buy to correct that with running a CV bracket. Plus I think Currie's new rear one will not hit.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 5:38 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
It's an artec truss with trac bar in the upper hole... Without the 1.25" body lift id hit tub hard-I'm not surprised by a clearance issue. I had a metalcloak trac bar waiting to go in-happy to report that it clears everything very nicely. Although it's as short as it can go and that's barely enough.

Moving the lowers would improve shock clearance since they'd tilt forward though wouldn't it?

Does moving the upper give a better spring actuation? Rather is stock spring angle poor and a vertical spring is a better angle?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 6:12 am 
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To get the most out of the spring rate you'd ideally want the spring 90 degrees at ride height. Tilting it forward would decrease the spring rate a little. Really you can do it either way.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 7:26 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Gotcha... Think that means I'll be moving uppers. Stiffer rate is preferable and 1/4" lift is livable.

Sounds like I'm going to get to spend some quality time with my die grinder


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 6:05 pm 
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whew, finally
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Port Angeles
Vehicle: 99TJ 2.5L 5spd 2.5" OME 1"BL D44/D30 locked 4.56 gears (should have gone deeper) lots of other mods.
Paul do you have an after picture of your passenger side? I need to do this too.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 7:00 pm 
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Sean, the bottom pic is my passenger side.

Edit: Here's The Driver If that's What You meant.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:13 pm 
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whew, finally
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Port Angeles
Vehicle: 99TJ 2.5L 5spd 2.5" OME 1"BL D44/D30 locked 4.56 gears (should have gone deeper) lots of other mods.
I see it now you went three link at the same time. I was trying to see how you notched the spring perch to accommodate the trac bar. This relocate is on my list, I would love an extra 1/4 to level the truck and fix my current arched springs.

Thanks paul.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 4:04 pm 
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There's room, just need to trim the bucket tabs a little. Came across this pic:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:00 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
I ended up buttoning mine back up, the clearance issue made a huge difference-must have been more than the light rub I thought it was.

I'm still planning on moving the bucket but I'll outboard at the same time... or go outboard air shock/coilover and just lop off the coil perches, haha.

Related note... what travel does the stock sway bar support? With just under 9" travel as measured at bump stop, the center of my sway bar goes from hitting the pumpkin at the pinion to hitting the truss... doesn't touch by much on either end but any more droop and it might start holding up the axle. Did you do anything different to you sway bar mounting Paul?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:53 pm 
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On my first 4 link, I just extended the links to where it didn't hit much. Then ran it. I had maybe 11 inches of travel? It tapped a little, but was never a problem.

When I triangulated the lowers I took it off.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:42 am 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
My Google fu is lacking again, can anyone tell me what the compressed length for rear rough country 2.5" springs is? I asked rough country and they said the springs would survive with no added bumpstop but the guy was also trying to sell me a set of springs too, haha.

Is it just coil diameter x #coils? My rough measurements say no bump added would put it not quite at coil bind-will the springs survive that?


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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 7:38 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Spent the weekend in the garage, mounted some 14" fox IFP's. Mounted them so that none of the factory uptravel is wasted-no added bumpstop over factory. Need to finish notching the frame for the drag link, and I think I'm going to do a center limit at 10" droop-making the track bar and steering work at full droop would require completely redoing the track bar- not to mention arm angle being a little silly. Also probably going to do a removeable crossmember between the towers. 33's rub the anti rock a bit, and get into the hood... going to copy the way metalcloaks attach with a true highline/hood cut. Planning to leave room for a true 34" tire.

Rear outboarding with 12" shocks to come, probably center limit that to 8" for the driveline.

Any suggestions for more or less center limit? Running rough country 2.5" springs, and 14/12 takes them from within 3/4" of coil bind to being just seated. Front should have around 6" up travel, not sure where the rear will sit just yet.

There enough tech in this to move it to the tech forum? :stirpot
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2014 4:43 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Finished up one fender, my plan for inner fenders turned out pretty well imo-1/16" rubber reinforced with cloth. Started out trying to use the same but not reinforced with cloth and it ripped a little too easily. The 14" shocks put the tires about 3/4" from the fender at full articulation, so the small 35's I'd like to run some day will rub just a hair.

Also did the signal flasher mod on stu's site to make the front LED's blink properly-cutting out the dead bulb sensor circuit works great.

The other fender is fabbed, just needs cleaned up and painted, then on to outboarding the rear shocks!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 3:06 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Mods can I get this moved to tech?

Finished one side of outboarding the rear... was more of a pain than I expected. My calipers weren't flipped, and one clearance check was all it took for me to go order the black magic reverse e brake stuff. Plus had to cut farther into the frame than I'd originally intended, little less than 1/4 of it left on the bottom and half on the top(proportion of whole not inches). Got about 10.5" as measured at center of bump stop. Was a pita to find the sweet spot between rubbing the tire articulated one way and hitting the frame the other way.

So my question is how far does your typical outboard cut into the frame and when does it become necessary to gusset or fish plate?

Also fixed my upper coil buckets, set them parallel to lowers at full bump. Didn't do a direct measurement but I think I got a small drop out of it(happy about that). Looks like about 1/2" rake, which is within what "looks right" to me.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 3:17 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Also found an interesting thing when while I was pulling the axles to swap the backing plates... the pin/screw that holds the cross shaft in on the trac loc had cracked most of the way through just below the threads. Have to get a pic of it later... a little longer and it could have grenaded itself and probably wasted my gears-which I'm planning on keeping, haha. Good thing there's an ARB on the bench waiting to go in!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 3:27 pm 
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Looks great! What are you using for a front trackbar and diff cover? WHen I had solid uptravel numbers I had some clearance issues and had to 'massage' some stuff to fit.

I had left about a 1/4 inch of upper frame and maybe 3/8 lower frame when I did mine. You'll be fine.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 4:09 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Paul wrote:
Looks great! What are you using for a front trackbar and diff cover? WHen I had solid uptravel numbers I had some clearance issues and had to 'massage' some stuff to fit.

I had left about a 1/4 inch of upper frame and maybe 3/8 lower frame when I did mine. You'll be fine.


Thanks Paul, sounds like I could have cut more frame and made life easier for me getting everything to clear.

I've got a riddler rear dif cover-doesn't quite touch one of the bolt heads on the savvy gts, and a metalcloak rear track bar mounted in the upper hole of an artec truss. The top of the truss has been ground down level with the track bar and gets within 1/4" of the tub. The track bar hits exhaust at full droop but I'm going to center limit at 8" droop for driveline protection so that should take care of that.

Whoops... front, haha. Front is metal cloak + 6" of 1.5", .25" DOM and a heim mounted at the C, stock diff cover. WJ steering left low so it leaves the track bar alone at full bump. Factory frame track bar mount is TIGHT to diff cover but clears. Drag link and tie rod are "1 ton" tre's, drag link is 1.5" .250 DOM I had left over from something else. Tie rod is 1 1/8 .188. I know... they should be the opposite, haha.

I've got 4.2" total bump stop and the springs have 6 loops at .6" diameter, so 3.6" is coil bind... is 4.2" safe? This puts me at about 5.5" rear up travel on 2.5" springs.

Rough country *claims* they'll fit with no bumpstop extension over stock, so by extension they're *claiming* that the springs survive near full bind, haha.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 4:21 pm 
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Sounds well thought out and well done. I didn't see a TB mount is why I asked. Uptravel numbers sound good. I had just under 6 in the rear of mine. Handled very well. Those Fox shocks should do very well. Who did you have tune them?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 4:33 pm 
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whew, finally

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 298
Location: Port Orchard
Vehicle: 98 tj 35's, 56 m38a1 3/4 ton running gear h1 37's
Got the shocks from Savvy... I know diddly about shock tuning which is why I ordered from them and I'm just crossing my fingers that it works ok.

Here's my steering... the draglink is now larger, and I'm nervous of the bend under the spring-but it has taken some good hits without bending (after I plated top/bottom of the bend under the spring, haha).

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