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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 2:46 pm 
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
For anyone looking for longer lug studs for your 1994-2001 (I think) Dodge Ram 2500 unit bearings or similar, use Dorman 610-194 they're about 1" longer and BEEFY

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Nearly finished with the tune-up. Need to change the oil, gap the plugs, and replace one of the O2 sensors and she'll run like a top again. Need to replace the evap canister too.

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Bump cans are in place up front, driver's side will need all kinds of gussets for the can, track bar, and steering box.
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Spun up a few 1" long aluminum bungs for the radiator. These will be welded to the tanks to mount it up front with a rubber bushing.
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Started mocking up the shocks and checking for interference. New frame made this easy! Raked shocks make a ton of room for bump cans and coil spacing.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 2:53 pm 
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Another shot of the front end
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How it all looks at full bump
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For anyone wondering, the newer TJ and LJ power steering pumps can swap reservoirs with the older TJ pumps - not sure if the pump swaps or not but I'll be using this extra one for ram assist.

98 Dodge Durango MC 1-1/8 bore bolts up, no mods needed. I'll be running a single line to a T front and rear with a JEGS proportioning valve to the rear
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Started adding some support tubes
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Finally got the rest of the parts that UPS lost from another cutter and put the rear end together.
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Then I flexed out the rear and found out I need to tube-out the frame...but I'll be waiting until after KOH to do that. Already have the parts and tube to do it, just not enough time. Oh well! Guess I'll rub a dub dub when I'm at full flex!
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 3:04 pm 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Tubed out the rest of the front end. There's more tubes to add for supports but not much. I wanted to run bars across the cowl at the hood line and down to the cross over bar on the shocks but that will have to wait. It would add a lot of weight too and complicate things so I will hold off. What does everyone think??? :D

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The side support tubes go through the firewall and to the cage via these tube couplers or interlocking clamps Chassis Unlimited. They have some great deals and a lot of my custom builder parts come from ChUn. These are VERY nice! Almost didn't want to use them, just keep them as desk pieces.

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Moved onto the brake system. These brackets are from RuffStuff, they're the Eaton brackets but should be the same as the 14 bolt stuff. They are for both SRW and DRW and needed help from a 5lb sledge to line up correctly with the brand new rotors and calipers. I also had to grind off some material on the inside of the brackets so the pads and calipers would fit between the two tabs on the bracket. The fit of these calipers, pads, and rotors is extremely tight but I think it will work. I'll find out more once I get her running again, hopefully end of the month!
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I found all the hoses and information from vetteboy in this thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general- ... lines.html

and used these hoses:

female-to-female hose 1985 Reliant K rear brake hose
Raybestos BH38064
Dorman H38064

Caliper hose 1985 Chevy Chevette front brake hose 7/16-20 banjo
Raybestos BH36832
Dorman H86572

Splitter 1982 Dodge W250 center front hose
Dorman H38090
Raybestos BH38090

1984 CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO 10x1.25 mm banjo
DORMAN H36847

And mounted them all on the frame and axles with RuffStuff weld on tabs and their tube mount tabs
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Stay tuned, I have a bunch of stuff to do in the next week and hope to have it on all four wheels shortly after Christmas! I also might be making a set of custom inner axles for spares :D

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 10:05 pm 
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whew, finally
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Nice progress!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 11:26 am 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Thanks Kevin! Almost done with the major stuff. Hoping to have the fuel tank mounted in the next couple days depending on my cutter. I should also have the small misc gussets and tabs I need to mount the winch, fairlead, grill, radiator, light bar, hood pins, and tie downs. I'll be doing the brake hard lines after paint, as well as the interior and dash work.

Hoping to bring the radiator to work next week and TIG the bungs on there after I get the tabs from my cutter. :brows: Then it's the race to finish all the little stuff - drivelines, mounts, cutting the grill to fit, side skirt fenders, paint paint paint paint paint, and fluids. :rock:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 11:50 am 
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Vehicle: What's left of a 98 TJ
I'd be interested to hear how that master cylinder works out for you.

I've heard that I need the one from an E-250 Van for my jeep. After going with tons (3/4 chevy disk brakes rear/F-350 brakes front) my pedal is a tad mushy with the stock TJ MC.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 12:59 pm 
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KarlVP wrote:
I've heard that I need the one from an E-250 Van for my jeep.
I did this in my XJ, way more better.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 1:54 pm 
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I'll report back on how it feels. I had Blaine help me match my brakes to the master since he already had the data and equations sitting there. Depending on the size of the pistons and the quantity of them, you may need to go with the Dodge 2500 MC.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 2:15 pm 
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The Durango MC works well with my dual piston Super duty Brakes.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 2:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 2:22 pm
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Location: Longmont, CO
Vehicle: 1993 YJ
2015 Ram 2500 6.4L
gtxracer wrote:
Depending on the size of the pistons and the quantity of them, you may need to go with the Dodge 2500 MC.

That's what I ran on my TJ with Ford 1-ton front brakes and Chevy 3/4-ton rears. Worked great, except the rears would lock first. I added a Wilwood adjustable prop valve and then they were perfect. I also ran a single line down to my front axle and T'd it off to each caliper.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 3:49 pm 
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whew, finally
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Location: Vancouver, WA
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Center drop front line is a lot nicer to deal with for sure!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 4:23 pm 
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Soy una gran cosa
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Location: Way up North.
Vehicle: '51 Power Wagon
Running a Dodge 2500 MC with Ford dual pistons up front and GM 3/4 ton rear calipers. Works good.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 5:29 pm 
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Vehicle: What's left of a 98 TJ
Myke J wrote:
gtxracer wrote:
Depending on the size of the pistons and the quantity of them, you may need to go with the Dodge 2500 MC.

That's what I ran on my TJ with Ford 1-ton front brakes and Chevy 3/4-ton rears. Worked great, except the rears would lock first. I added a Wilwood adjustable prop valve and then they were perfect. I also ran a single line down to my front axle and T'd it off to each caliper.



The single line to the front is next on my list along with the MC.

I have cutting brakes on the rear. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 10:30 pm 
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Well Christmas was great for the Jeep and the shop! Scored a 20 year old ESAB plasma cutter that I'd like to use for a homemade plasma cnc setup.
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Girlfriend earned her keep yet again and got me a Joe's racing 14" wheel and quick disconnect
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While she was at it, she got me a rolling bench and some other shop goodies
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Put the rear truss bridge on the axle and cycled the suspension then mounted the coilovers
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I put her down on two wheels and she's 4" high. Needs lighter spring rates to bring it down about 2" and the added weight from tools, fuel, and gear will take down the other 2".
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 10:58 pm 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Christmas evening I had a few hours to the shop and got the front end about 70% welded. I'll get to the rest when the front end is pulled out. I'm about out of welding gas again, probably wire too. Added the eBay tube couplers for the push bar replacement.
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Got a smokin deal on a Fox shim kit and Coleman racing axle seals. I got 5 seals for about the same cost as a single Spidertrax seal. These seals can have their rubber replaced easily and cut out of a 1/8" sheet at any time. They can also have the press-in style seals pushed into the housing. Pretty neat. These are for the front end, might use two sets to keep crud out of the axle tubes.
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Moved onto the front shocks and had to find a way to get the broken shafts out. Purged the tank with air and BAM, a ton of oil and the shaft gushed out!!! hah!!!
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Having problems getting the bearing cap off the second coilover that snapped a shaft. I have a second body and components so I may have to run that one. 3 black coilovers and 1 blue. Can't have that! Mounted up the shocks and proceeded with the build to keep momentum. Still have a ton of work to do.
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Don't mind the bent drag link and tie rod, those were temperary mock up pieces that won't be used past the shop.
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And then, for the first time, she is sitting on shocks and her actual wheels and tires
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 7:42 am 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Been burning the midnight oil...

Tacked the bungs onto the radiator for placement-
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Tight tolerances everywhere on this build-
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Burned the axles and used the alignment bar to check everything-
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Doing well on the straightness
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Went to town painting everything, wish I had a paint booth/shop but this is much better than anything I've had previously
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 7:48 am 
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Couple cool shots of the Eaton pinions. These are MASSIVE.

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Total weight for the rear Eaton with disk brakes, shafts, brake lines, third member, SRW hubs - 330 pounds without cover or fluids.
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Made a simple battery mount
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Painted the dash black to hide all the marks and crap I've cut off of it. I'll be 3D printing some bezels and switch pods if I get time. Also making a spacer for the steering wheel because $30+ for an aluminum spacer from Joe's just isn't my style.
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All the little things are taking a while but slowly getting down. Turned down the jacked up rotor
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For those wondering, Spidertrax bells or yokes won't fit in the Dodge unit bearing knuckles and axles - too big!
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I thought this was very useful, I marked where the center of the u-joint was located on the knuckle and then took them out and slid in a 14 bolt 30 spline shaft to measure for my custom front axles. Put in the order for them yesterday to Kickass Offroad. Should have them early next week!
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 7:55 am 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Couple cool shots of the Eaton pinions. These are MASSIVE.

Image

Total weight for the rear Eaton with disk brakes, shafts, brake lines, third member, SRW hubs - 330 pounds without cover or fluids.
Image

Made a simple battery mount
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Painted the dash black to hide all the marks and crap I've cut off of it. I'll be 3D printing some bezels and switch pods if I get time. Also making a spacer for the steering wheel because $30+ for an aluminum spacer from Joe's just isn't my style.
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All the little things are taking a while but slowly getting down. Turned down the jacked up rotor
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For those wondering, Spidertrax bells or yokes won't fit in the Dodge unit bearing knuckles and axles - too big!
Image

I thought this was very useful, I marked where the center of the u-joint was located on the knuckle and then took them out and slid in a 14 bolt 30 spline shaft to measure for my custom front axles. Put in the order for them yesterday to Kickass Offroad. Should have them early next week!
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 7:55 am 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Slapped everything together. The rear brakes are VERY tight on the rotors. Is this normal??? It's hard to turn them by hand and the piston is fully seated as far as I can tell.
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Alex (Alxj64) from Black Water Fab has been kicking out tabs for me left and right. The guy is seriously good with his plasma CNC table and he's on the East Coast but will ship to you if you need help. I highly recommend him! He's been following my build and even put a special tough on the last package he sent me. For those following on Instagram, this should be familiar! IG account: Jeeps4Trevin

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With the new tabs, mounted the radiator finally. There is spacing for 3/8" thick rubber washers.

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That brings this up to date. I will have more after this weekend. I fired up the engine two days ago to make sure she would start. Have some small work to do but I think she will be running and possibly driving this weekend if things go well. Waiting on some silicone hoses and other parts to arrive this week in order to fill the radiator and connect the lines. New PSC built steering box on the way and I'll have some other goodies to throw on. Still a lot of work to do but the light can be seen!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:44 pm 
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Vehicle: '12 Moo
:rock: :cheers:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 12:46 pm 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Thanks Drae!

Radiator found it's home, still need to bore out the tabs and make the rubber isolators to keep the radiator alive when the frame flexes
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Plumbed it with eBay silicone elbows and aluminum tube with a Parker flex hose up top. I have since shortened the flex hose and added a 90 to clean it up and package it tighter.
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Scored a PSC built box
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Welded up the steering box and slapped it together.
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Been plumbing the last of the brake lines and started bleeding all the systems. Coolant, brakes, power steering


...and FINALLY!

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Don't mind the steering, working that out now. 1000 little things left to do but she drives and moves on her own. Need to finish out the Jeep and then focus on getting the trailer and tow rig ready.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 12:55 pm 
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whew, finally
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Location: Graham, WA
Vehicle: '94 YJ 5.3/TH400
Looking sweet dude! I won't make it to KOH this year :(

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 12:56 pm 
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Looks good Trevin :thumbsup: It's come along way.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 1:31 pm 
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Congrats dude! I remember that day w/my XJ, feels good to get to that point... :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 1:59 pm 
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Vehicle: 1993 YJ
2015 Ram 2500 6.4L
Awesome work dude :rock:

I thought I was going to have mine to roller status this weekend, but I lost/misplaced some parts and have to wait on replacements :bang:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 9:12 pm 
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Wow thanks guys!! It feels great to have it rolling around and it started :mrgreen:

Working on extending the fuel lines, grabbing speed bleeders to easily bleed the brakes, and fixing my goofy steering from my brain fart. Hope to have majority of this knocked out by end of this week and be able to go on an actual test drive.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 8:55 pm 
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Tick tock, wrapping up the little things.

Made a steering wheel spacer to get the Joe's Racing wheel away from the turn signals and wiper controls
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Need to weld the splined adapter to the column but that's the last of it
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I got my order for the shafts from Kickass Offroad. He spun these up in a few days, very quick and knows his stuff. 14 bolt 30 spline with his stress relief on the splines.
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I had to open up the snout on the Coleman Racing inner axle seals. These are stackable and you can make your own seals with a sheet of Nitrile or neoprene. Nitrile seals oil a bit better than neoprene but both will work. I'll be using double seals but can go all the way to quad seals if I feel the need.
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I also had to trim down the wiper seals. These are great because they conform to the axle shaft no matter how badly you cut out the seal inside diameter.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 9:01 pm 
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Axles fit very well
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I ghetto-fabbed a driveline extension using near-perfect alignment techniques: I clamped it to my welding table and burned it together!
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I also scored a Volvo fan at the junkyard, already pulled, with the relay but missing one or two plugs. I'll probably just wire it up with some universal plugs but if anyone has the volvo plugs let me know. Also used some Russel quick connect fittings for the fuel hose. These use a 3/8" and 5/16" size fittings for the fuel lines on a stock TJ fuel tank pump and hard line. You'll need a -4 fuel line female ends to connect them, about 2 feet long, if you want to put the fuel tank behind the seats. Russell 640850 and 640860.
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Fabbed up some super trick uber fabulous hood pin mounts and mounted the Daystar hood pins into the hood. Trimmed the grill as well.
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And lastly, my light bar and winch mount system that will never work.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:08 am 
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Looks great Trevin. Looks like that winch cable is gonna pull hard against the fairlead pretty hard?

Did you get the oil and shims?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:49 am 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Yup, got the shins and oil, thanks! I'll try to get them filled up before I head out but I'll definitely need a nitrogen bump.


Winch line points directly at the fairlead, the plates wrap around the tube 45 degrees and the top of the fairlead can rest against the tube if needed. Although, it could be mounted up top if I made an extension past the push bar 1". It might pull up on the fairlead a bit but others run a similar setup without problems. We'll see. Most situations with the winch has my nose high, so this would have the cable running straight in most scenarios that we see.

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