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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 11:16 am 
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Im not a player, I just post alot.
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
Posts: 1827
Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Been driving this on the street a little bit here and there. Took it to the scales and had it weighed. 4500 lbs with me in it, full fuel, but no skid plates. No tailgate (30 lbs) and only had recovery gear in it. Without myself and fuel, Jeep would weigh approximately 4250 with skids bolted back on. I'm pretty happy with that, but I may try to knock off ~250lbs later on.

Here's a breakdown of the potential savings for each item (not their weight, the SAVINGS):

Convert main skid to 6061: 50 lbs
Convert Links to 7075: 20 lbs
Replace tailgate with 6061: 25 lbs
Convert rockers to 6061: 70 lbs
Swap corner armor to 6061: 50 lbs
Convert engine skid to 6061: 16 lbs

This is all based on density, areas, known weights, and first hand knowledge from fellow Jeepers. I don't see links as a worthwhile swap considering I have chromo links. If I swap all that out, I'd save 226 lbs plus the weight of the fuel cell swap that I'd like to do, another 80 lbs if I swapped in an aluminum block LS. Keep in mind, there's no spare tire back there, so that adds ~150 lbs with a mount. If I chop off the rear frame I'd potentially save a little bit more. I think it's possible to make this TJ around 4300 lbs race-ready.

Made up some new rear shock mounts that are 0.75" lower. Should be able to redrill the lower mount and drop it another 0.5". This should get me another ~1.25" in rear uptravel which will help quite a bit in the big stuff. Going to stick with 2.0 C/Os for a while longer. Still need to notch my frame!

Picked up a SWAG finger brake and a Crossfire plasma CNC. Crossfire should be here next month. I'll let you all know how I like it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:18 pm 
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Im not a player, I just post alot.
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
Posts: 1827
Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Not sure where your reply went PNWJeeper but the table should be sweet. :dunno: :mrgreen:


Forgot to post these random driveway shots of the mall crawler. Been driving it on the weekends and might put it into a car show soon. Hoping to have my half doors done and on the Jeep with the 3D printed hinges in the next couple weeks. Also hoping to get out to Naches in the middle of July.

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My other two projects. The 2008 BMW 135i is getting two new OEM turbos and fluids. 300hp/300ft-lbs from the factory. It's getting a 7" intercooler, a tune, intake, and downpipes next year. Raptor is getting a trans tune and 37s with mid perch. I'll grab some 2.5 4" bumps and fab mounts for it eventually. This is my main DD so not much to change on it to keep it reliable and somewhat of a sleeper for the dunes and whoops runs.
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diggin this side profile

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Also forgot to post this. 2 degree camber bushings :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:24 pm 
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Pimp
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Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:08 am
Posts: 5854
Location: North Bend
Vehicle: 98-TJ
BMW needs this:

http://www.ad-eng.net/store/p25/AD_Engi ... i_%29.html

and

http://www.ad-eng.net/store/p44/ADE_135 ... _Kit_.html

and

I think he has a 4L80 trans kits coming out....

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 8:27 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
Posts: 1827
Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
ryan2l wrote:


That is pretty cool! I’ve seen the single turbo setups but that’s different. Also like his 8.8 conversion. I’m not planning to beat on mine so hopefully the rear end will last. There’s quite a few guys running 500hp with bolt ons so I’m going that route first. I doubt I’ll want more than that for quite a while! Thanks for posting these, I’ll save them for later. :cool:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 4:24 pm 
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Im not a player, I just post alot.
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
Posts: 1827
Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Got out and hit Naches yesterday. Pretty fun jamming the logging roads with the new power. Jeep held steady at 60 mph with no major issues. Steering is super smooth and stable, jeep itself is also extremely stable. Still have a number of small items to clean up and fix. Main focus after this is fixing the rear clearance problems and making a new rear frame. Links hit the frame and I'm out of space with the truss to the tub so I need to come up with something different or start cutting into the tub. I'll be putting all my numbers into the 4 link calc and doing some digging on how I can make this better.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
My current 4link numbers vs the proposed change I'm thinking of doing. Lower the upper mount at the axle 3.5" and push out ~8" from center. I think this would retain enough triangulation and also keep my geometry where I want it. I need to refresh my understanding on roll axis angle, instant center, and travel roll axis.

If anyone has input, I'm all ears. I'm no expert, just applying some of the things I've learned.

Current geometry:
https://i.imgur.com/ZDrmVsD.png
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Proposed geometry:
https://i.imgur.com/HX291wa.png
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Almost forgot - looking to chop rear frame sometime after summer. Should be adding 2.5x14 triple bypasses in the rear and 2.5 Coilovers in front to replace the 2.0s.

Here's the proposed rear frame and you can also see the proposed UCA mount for the axle. This would allow 9" of travel at the current ride height. So I can actually drop the rear another 2" while keeping 7" travel without cutting into the floor of the tub. I would need to cut holes for the shocks but I haven't designed those mounts yet. More on that later. Second crossmember behind the tub line is for the sway bar and adds more strength to the hitch. There will be plates covering the space between the tubes with reverse dimpled holes with serrations for grip. Stay tuned!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Someone asked about my rear shock mounts and I realized I never posted the result of my changes. This will probably shed light on the tabs welded to the square plate seen earlier in this thread. 1/4-20 hardware, sandwhiches the tub. Plenty strong.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 12:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Quick update: Bought a 4L80E in preparation for future power add-ons (6.0), selling the Stak D300 and AA converted 4L60E, and buying 2.5 3 tube Radflos for the rear. Also plan to put 2" Fox 2.0 bumps back there. Chopping the frame soon, just designing all of it prior so I have a final plan. Ditching the 2" hitch, not really needed. Current plan is to add a RCI 2162A fuel cell under the rear of the tub, 15 gallons should do it for trail duty. A 26 or 32 gallon cell can go in the bed if I ever race and this trail cell will drop right out. Already have a fuel pump for it.

At some point I'll be pulling the 4L60E/Stak and ordering an Atlas. Also serious considering pulling the factory wiring harness and ignition to wire in a Switch Pros module. We'll see if funds allow but I bet they do :D

Sweet servo and 2.75 turn box are also underway. Have all the parts, just need to put it in. New PSC reservoir went in, much nicer upgrade. Stuff is rolling in, hoping the new 2x2 plasma table is here within two weeks, I'm getting antsy.

Anyway, pics-

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2018 7:52 am 
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I like the cloven hoof
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:59 am
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Location: Snoqualmie, WA
Vehicle: '05 LJ
This thing is looking awesome, you need to take "slightly" out of the post title!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2018 1:49 pm 
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Location: Mount Vernon
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I'm assembling a crossfire now and I'm pleasantly surprised with the quality. I have no comparison or experience with other plasma tables but it seems to be designed well.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2018 11:19 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Lezbone wrote:
This thing is looking awesome, you need to take "slightly" out of the post title!


haha thanks Lezbone! I don't think I wheel enough to actually be hardcore :roflmao:


sideshow wrote:
I'm assembling a crossfire now and I'm pleasantly surprised with the quality. I have no comparison or experience with other plasma tables but it seems to be designed well.


That's good to hear! I should have mine any week now. I'm chomping at the bit, I have a bunch of projects lined up for cutting and the suspense is killing me! I really need the table to cut the frame and burn out some shock mounts and tabs.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Whew. A lot has happened in the past couple months. I purchased a Langmuir Systems 2x2 plasma CNC table with water table add-on. I use it with my Powermax 65 from Hypertherm and it's been pretty awesome having my own table! I extended it to 25x34 to cut a few larger items for my Etsy/IG/FB business.

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Onto the 4L80E swap again. I went back and forth on what I wanted to do. I was gonna leave it all stock, just add the cooler, keep it simple. Well, that didn't last as I was heaving around the 60lb torque converter and read about all the small changes to make to a 80E in order for it to run well. I bought a Jake's Performance torque converter, 10.5" and 3000 stall. Weighs about half the stock converter. To help the converter, I'm still use 8AN lines and huge cooler but also added a Transgo HD2 shift kit. This should make for a clean and easy swap with great performance that I can count on - no more blowing out 3rd gear on the lakebed :D

Since I was already going to be changing the tune and I'll want to yank the radiator to test my Volvo fan, I'm changing out the cam. I'm going with a Brian Tooley Racing Stage 3 truck cam. BTR sells these as kits and right now they're free shipping and 10% off. Should have a nice chop on the idle and pickup quite a few ponies.

Onto the rear frame and suspension....I'm not chopping the rear frame. Don't have time and just don't want to mess with it. Bummer for those watching for that. I designed a cool little enclosure that mates with the inside contour of the tub and covers the shocks. It has a rubber seal at the top to keep the shocks separate and outside the body but the upper body of the shock protrudes through the tub and mounts to the cage. I even sourced a pair of Radflo 2.5x14 triple bypasses but I just don't want to deal with it at the moment. Maybe on the next rig.

New plan is to cut off the existing bump stops and fab something for 2" 2.0 Fox hydro bumps and add Fox 2.5x12" with DSCs to the rear. If I can't live with this, then maybe I'll cut up the rear, but I bet it's plenty for me right now. Besides, with the amount of mall crawling I do, I will barely use the travel.

Pics of the frame ideas I had since they were designed and done and I might as well show them off:

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Changed from holes to oval cutouts
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I have another update following this...

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 4:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
Posts: 1827
Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Steering will be finished soon. Added a Genright twisted pitman arm and a Sweet .250 servo. Just about done, had to get creative with the servo mount. Still a 4gpm PSC pump and 2.25 bore 1.125 rod double ended PSC ram. I also took my tilt column out and made a set of fixed brackets with my cnc table.

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Took my dash off for hopefully the final time. I cut out ALL the extra circuits cleanly by removing the pins and then reassembling the plugs. I will be doing the same with the underhood harness, just not sure if I 'll get time before KOH. This took a few days but well worth it. I routed the extra fuse block positions to the switches and circuits behind the dash. It makes it look factory and it's very clean now. No mess. I can't wait to ditch the unused Jeep plugs and circuits out of the main underhood harness. I might even remove the factory fuse block for a simpler one.

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