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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 11:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
Posts: 1833
Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Been driving this on the street a little bit here and there. Took it to the scales and had it weighed. 4500 lbs with me in it, full fuel, but no skid plates. No tailgate (30 lbs) and only had recovery gear in it. Without myself and fuel, Jeep would weigh approximately 4250 with skids bolted back on. I'm pretty happy with that, but I may try to knock off ~250lbs later on.

Here's a breakdown of the potential savings for each item (not their weight, the SAVINGS):

Convert main skid to 6061: 50 lbs
Convert Links to 7075: 20 lbs
Replace tailgate with 6061: 25 lbs
Convert rockers to 6061: 70 lbs
Swap corner armor to 6061: 50 lbs
Convert engine skid to 6061: 16 lbs

This is all based on density, areas, known weights, and first hand knowledge from fellow Jeepers. I don't see links as a worthwhile swap considering I have chromo links. If I swap all that out, I'd save 226 lbs plus the weight of the fuel cell swap that I'd like to do, another 80 lbs if I swapped in an aluminum block LS. Keep in mind, there's no spare tire back there, so that adds ~150 lbs with a mount. If I chop off the rear frame I'd potentially save a little bit more. I think it's possible to make this TJ around 4300 lbs race-ready.

Made up some new rear shock mounts that are 0.75" lower. Should be able to redrill the lower mount and drop it another 0.5". This should get me another ~1.25" in rear uptravel which will help quite a bit in the big stuff. Going to stick with 2.0 C/Os for a while longer. Still need to notch my frame!

Picked up a SWAG finger brake and a Crossfire plasma CNC. Crossfire should be here next month. I'll let you all know how I like it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:18 pm 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Not sure where your reply went PNWJeeper but the table should be sweet. :dunno: :mrgreen:


Forgot to post these random driveway shots of the mall crawler. Been driving it on the weekends and might put it into a car show soon. Hoping to have my half doors done and on the Jeep with the 3D printed hinges in the next couple weeks. Also hoping to get out to Naches in the middle of July.

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My other two projects. The 2008 BMW 135i is getting two new OEM turbos and fluids. 300hp/300ft-lbs from the factory. It's getting a 7" intercooler, a tune, intake, and downpipes next year. Raptor is getting a trans tune and 37s with mid perch. I'll grab some 2.5 4" bumps and fab mounts for it eventually. This is my main DD so not much to change on it to keep it reliable and somewhat of a sleeper for the dunes and whoops runs.
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diggin this side profile

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Also forgot to post this. 2 degree camber bushings :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:24 pm 
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Location: North Bend
Vehicle: 98-TJ
BMW needs this:

http://www.ad-eng.net/store/p25/AD_Engi ... i_%29.html

and

http://www.ad-eng.net/store/p44/ADE_135 ... _Kit_.html

and

I think he has a 4L80 trans kits coming out....

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 8:27 pm 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
ryan2l wrote:


That is pretty cool! I’ve seen the single turbo setups but that’s different. Also like his 8.8 conversion. I’m not planning to beat on mine so hopefully the rear end will last. There’s quite a few guys running 500hp with bolt ons so I’m going that route first. I doubt I’ll want more than that for quite a while! Thanks for posting these, I’ll save them for later. :cool:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 4:24 pm 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Got out and hit Naches yesterday. Pretty fun jamming the logging roads with the new power. Jeep held steady at 60 mph with no major issues. Steering is super smooth and stable, jeep itself is also extremely stable. Still have a number of small items to clean up and fix. Main focus after this is fixing the rear clearance problems and making a new rear frame. Links hit the frame and I'm out of space with the truss to the tub so I need to come up with something different or start cutting into the tub. I'll be putting all my numbers into the 4 link calc and doing some digging on how I can make this better.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 2:43 pm 
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My current 4link numbers vs the proposed change I'm thinking of doing. Lower the upper mount at the axle 3.5" and push out ~8" from center. I think this would retain enough triangulation and also keep my geometry where I want it. I need to refresh my understanding on roll axis angle, instant center, and travel roll axis.

If anyone has input, I'm all ears. I'm no expert, just applying some of the things I've learned.

Current geometry:
https://i.imgur.com/ZDrmVsD.png
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Proposed geometry:
https://i.imgur.com/HX291wa.png
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 2:59 pm 
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Almost forgot - looking to chop rear frame sometime after summer. Should be adding 2.5x14 triple bypasses in the rear and 2.5 Coilovers in front to replace the 2.0s.

Here's the proposed rear frame and you can also see the proposed UCA mount for the axle. This would allow 9" of travel at the current ride height. So I can actually drop the rear another 2" while keeping 7" travel without cutting into the floor of the tub. I would need to cut holes for the shocks but I haven't designed those mounts yet. More on that later. Second crossmember behind the tub line is for the sway bar and adds more strength to the hitch. There will be plates covering the space between the tubes with reverse dimpled holes with serrations for grip. Stay tuned!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 12:13 pm 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Someone asked about my rear shock mounts and I realized I never posted the result of my changes. This will probably shed light on the tabs welded to the square plate seen earlier in this thread. 1/4-20 hardware, sandwhiches the tub. Plenty strong.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 12:06 pm 
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Quick update: Bought a 4L80E in preparation for future power add-ons (6.0), selling the Stak D300 and AA converted 4L60E, and buying 2.5 3 tube Radflos for the rear. Also plan to put 2" Fox 2.0 bumps back there. Chopping the frame soon, just designing all of it prior so I have a final plan. Ditching the 2" hitch, not really needed. Current plan is to add a RCI 2162A fuel cell under the rear of the tub, 15 gallons should do it for trail duty. A 26 or 32 gallon cell can go in the bed if I ever race and this trail cell will drop right out. Already have a fuel pump for it.

At some point I'll be pulling the 4L60E/Stak and ordering an Atlas. Also serious considering pulling the factory wiring harness and ignition to wire in a Switch Pros module. We'll see if funds allow but I bet they do :D

Sweet servo and 2.75 turn box are also underway. Have all the parts, just need to put it in. New PSC reservoir went in, much nicer upgrade. Stuff is rolling in, hoping the new 2x2 plasma table is here within two weeks, I'm getting antsy.

Anyway, pics-

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2018 7:52 am 
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I like the cloven hoof
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This thing is looking awesome, you need to take "slightly" out of the post title!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2018 1:49 pm 
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I'm assembling a crossfire now and I'm pleasantly surprised with the quality. I have no comparison or experience with other plasma tables but it seems to be designed well.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2018 11:19 am 
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Lezbone wrote:
This thing is looking awesome, you need to take "slightly" out of the post title!


haha thanks Lezbone! I don't think I wheel enough to actually be hardcore :roflmao:


sideshow wrote:
I'm assembling a crossfire now and I'm pleasantly surprised with the quality. I have no comparison or experience with other plasma tables but it seems to be designed well.


That's good to hear! I should have mine any week now. I'm chomping at the bit, I have a bunch of projects lined up for cutting and the suspense is killing me! I really need the table to cut the frame and burn out some shock mounts and tabs.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 4:25 pm 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Whew. A lot has happened in the past couple months. I purchased a Langmuir Systems 2x2 plasma CNC table with water table add-on. I use it with my Powermax 65 from Hypertherm and it's been pretty awesome having my own table! I extended it to 25x34 to cut a few larger items for my Etsy/IG/FB business.

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Onto the 4L80E swap again. I went back and forth on what I wanted to do. I was gonna leave it all stock, just add the cooler, keep it simple. Well, that didn't last as I was heaving around the 60lb torque converter and read about all the small changes to make to a 80E in order for it to run well. I bought a Jake's Performance torque converter, 10.5" and 3000 stall. Weighs about half the stock converter. To help the converter, I'm still use 8AN lines and huge cooler but also added a Transgo HD2 shift kit. This should make for a clean and easy swap with great performance that I can count on - no more blowing out 3rd gear on the lakebed :D

Since I was already going to be changing the tune and I'll want to yank the radiator to test my Volvo fan, I'm changing out the cam. I'm going with a Brian Tooley Racing Stage 3 truck cam. BTR sells these as kits and right now they're free shipping and 10% off. Should have a nice chop on the idle and pickup quite a few ponies.

Onto the rear frame and suspension....I'm not chopping the rear frame. Don't have time and just don't want to mess with it. Bummer for those watching for that. I designed a cool little enclosure that mates with the inside contour of the tub and covers the shocks. It has a rubber seal at the top to keep the shocks separate and outside the body but the upper body of the shock protrudes through the tub and mounts to the cage. I even sourced a pair of Radflo 2.5x14 triple bypasses but I just don't want to deal with it at the moment. Maybe on the next rig.

New plan is to cut off the existing bump stops and fab something for 2" 2.0 Fox hydro bumps and add Fox 2.5x12" with DSCs to the rear. If I can't live with this, then maybe I'll cut up the rear, but I bet it's plenty for me right now. Besides, with the amount of mall crawling I do, I will barely use the travel.

Pics of the frame ideas I had since they were designed and done and I might as well show them off:

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Changed from holes to oval cutouts
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I have another update following this...

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2018 4:30 pm 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Steering will be finished soon. Added a Genright twisted pitman arm and a Sweet .250 servo. Just about done, had to get creative with the servo mount. Still a 4gpm PSC pump and 2.25 bore 1.125 rod double ended PSC ram. I also took my tilt column out and made a set of fixed brackets with my cnc table.

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Took my dash off for hopefully the final time. I cut out ALL the extra circuits cleanly by removing the pins and then reassembling the plugs. I will be doing the same with the underhood harness, just not sure if I 'll get time before KOH. This took a few days but well worth it. I routed the extra fuse block positions to the switches and circuits behind the dash. It makes it look factory and it's very clean now. No mess. I can't wait to ditch the unused Jeep plugs and circuits out of the main underhood harness. I might even remove the factory fuse block for a simpler one.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:07 am 
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Not sure who is still here and lurking. Lots of updates.

4l80e swap is in and done. Also did a BTR Stage 3 truck cam kit. Fired it up last night and can't wait to drive it. Need to chop down rear driveshaft to give it a test drive.

Had to put a real seal in the D300 input retainer from AA. Goobers don't know how to make a sealed input.

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Did a TBSS intake swap as well with a PTM throttle body. Really excited to see how this wakes up the torque. Had to make a custom mount for my Lokar throttle cable but having a cnc plasma and a SWAG finger brake made this pretty easy.

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3D printed some carbon fiber nylon dies for the SWAG finger brake while I was at it

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3D printed some 1.625" shock clamps for Paul while I was at it. Why not?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:12 am 
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Went with a shorty style dipstick to keep the engine bay a little cleaner and easy to work in. Also didn't want a Lokar one, they're hard to fill up. These are on ebay.

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Made a toddler bed for my nephew. Cut all the plates on the cnc plasma. Man this thing is handy to have.

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When I did the BTR stage 3 cam I also installed a LS2 timing chain and Melling M295 oil pump. New springs and valve seals. New cam bolts.

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Went with a 3000 stall 10.5" converter from Jake's Performance. Stock 4l80e from a van has a 60lb converter that's around 1300 stall. No thanks. This should make for a much snappier throttle and launch with better performance all around.

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Still playing with the steering but so far it's powerful and just needs some friction removed to make it faster.

Machined a 300m sector shaft at work. I designed it, cnc machinists brought it to life. These are not for my car unfortunately.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:18 am 
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No time for bypasses this year so I'll do that after KOH. I need to clearance the frame for the lowers and make low profile upper link mounts on the axle. That's one of the last big things to do.

Few more random pics, sorry if they're upside down. Here's the crossmember for the 4l80e to D300. It's clocked flat to clear everything. Side plug for the trans controls. Extra VSS plug added. New 4l80e internal harness. Winter's shifter kit. HD2 shift kit from Transgo. Should go pretty well. Still have the bigass griffin cooler if temps rise. CM has a cutout to remove the tcase and drop the pan if needed.

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Cleaned up the wiring even more and added a 120a relay, 150a breaker, and 40a fuse bank for now. Will add more if needed but this should suffice. I can add larger gauge wire in the future and run all accessories off this relay and go without the underhood box if I want to. That might be more of a nightmare than it's worth. We'll see.

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All buttoned up with TBSS intake, UNI air filter (4"x11" with prefilter - the best!), PTM 92mm throttle body, BTR stage 3 cam, Melling M295, and LS2 timing chain. Should run pretty well.

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Started and ran it last night. Time to button up everything, check all fluids, grease all joints, check all bolts, and get the driveshafts and rear links sorted. Almost there with plenty of time to spare. Need to swap the power steering pump on the Raptor but that should only take half a day.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 12:23 am 
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whew, finally
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Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
So what makes UNI air filter (4"x11" with prefilter - the best!). I'll throw my $60 AEM filter and $25 prefilter in the garbage if there's a good enough reason. Educate me please.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2019 9:49 am 
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Tipped wrote:
So what makes UNI air filter (4"x11" with prefilter - the best!). I'll throw my $60 AEM filter and $25 prefilter in the garbage if there's a good enough reason. Educate me please.


Those filters are fine for most people. Unfortunately, to get the flow numbers they require on that type of fabric filter, it must allow a certain amount of air to pass through the filter. This means not all the fine dust particles are caught, especially since it's a dry filter. The prefilter may do that job to some extent but the base filter should be the last line of defense against silt and dust. I had ZERO dust from KOH in my intake tubes. Zero. None. Clean as it was when it was brand new (installed).

Foam type filters with oil are the only filter that will ever go on an offroad vehicle that I own. I've used the K&N style paper filters and so have others that I've wheeled with - they DON'T WORK for our application. As soon as you hit dust, it's letting it pass right through the filter. Also, most people put on a filter that's WAY too small for their application. Those little 4" cone filters from Vatozone do not provide enough flow or protection especially once the dust hits.

FWIW, I run an Airaid intake on my Raptor that came with the truck. I clean it when I do oil changes and it does fine and even handled KOH fine - but it HAD to be cleaned after KOH. I ran this UNI filter for months after KOH without cleaning it and it didn't need it at all. It's THAT good!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2019 8:48 pm 
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whew, finally
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Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
That's it. I'm sold. Thank you for the information. Dust is my main concern when out on the trail. I want my LQ9 to live as long as possible. Thank you very much for the information!!!!!

On a side note, have you developed a great way to bleed all the air out of your 6.0 liter when filling the coolant system? I've been told to leave the steam vent hose unhooked from the throttle body and fill the block through the upper hose 1st till it pee's out the steam hose. Then hook that up and keep pouring into the upper hose till the rad fills to the upper hose fitting. Then hook up the upper hose and top it off. Is that correct?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 9:15 am 
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No problem! I used to run those fabric filters and after my first KOH my intake was full of dust. I ran a Uni filter on my 4.0 after that with zero issues. Trevor has that one now, hopefully he’s using it. :roflmao:

I wish I had a 6.0 :mrgreen: but it’s the same process haha. I typically don’t bleed the air system because the pump should be pushing fluid. So essentially it should bleed itself. I’ve never had an issue with my current Griffin radiator besides the pin holes that were my fault from mounting a trans cooler through the fins like a dummy.

I run an overflow bottle off the nipple below the cap of the radiator. The line runs to the bottom of the bottle so if it has a vacuum it will suck fluid back into the radiator or push it in from the bottom. The top is vented with a coiled line for overflow from the bottle itself. Initially it was pushing coolant out the whole time and Kevin helped me route the steam line properly. We basically drilled and tapped a hole in the front of the radiator to run the steam return. I had it running through my throttle body initially but that’s an optional step for very cold climates to keep the throttle body and intake warm. Not needed here IMO. I just ran the steam port straight to the tapped hole in the radiator this time.

I also run the GM orange coolant and it works well. No issues thus far with heat, even when it was a few quarts low. Volvo fan cools everything really well even though my shroud is not the best. I now have the LS computer controlling fan activation but still have a single pole double throw switch to manually operate fans if needed.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 10:51 pm 
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whew, finally
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Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Thank you again. My coolant system is set up same as yours. I was having problems with the tstat not opening and I thought it might have been trapped air. I’m gonna boil the old tstat and see if it opens correctly. Might b stuck. Well thanks for d info. Looking forward to more of your updates.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 9:27 am 
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whew, finally
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Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Both t-stats, old and new one, opened same time in the pot last night. On 1st start I had flow to the heater core shut of completely. I've since learned that's a big no no unless you swap out the LS tstat for an SBC tstat. Can't block that flow or the water pump cavitates and the tstat no open. Now that I know that I'm good to go.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 10:19 am 
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No problem!

I have no tstat in mine :mrgreen: I plan to run one eventually but I haven't had issues. A lot of the guys doing these swaps leave the tstat out. Just preference I guess. My WP nipple was swapped with an SBC straight to go right to the radiator. Works well.

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