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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 6:43 am 
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I like everything that is happening here. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 7:01 am 
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
JeepStangGuy wrote:
I like the doors, could you use some of the best top soft door latches?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/11147_9001.htm


Thanks! I like those door latches, might have to try those. I didn't have the alignment dialed in, so I would have to rough cut the holes for those. They're about $50 more than I spent on the hot rod latches, so we'll see where this takes me. I honestly like the smooth door look a little more than having an outside handle. But if I add half door uppers, I would need a way to get in! :lol:

Paul wrote:
I like everything that is happening here. :)


Thanks Paul. Hoping to get it all wrapped up soon, maybe this weekend. I'm super stoked to get the steering working perfectly again, it was amazing.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 8:52 am 
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Look at the Poison spyder trail skins, the holes are slightly bigger to allow for some adjustment of the latch

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 9:31 am 
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JeepStangGuy wrote:
Look at the Poison spyder trail skins, the holes are slightly bigger to allow for some adjustment of the latch


I'll check that out, thanks! Would be nice to have windows in the winter. I'll steal the girlfriend's half windows and give her my full doors. They've been on borrowed time for years.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:02 am 
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Sway bars are done, fronts had a small bend added to clear the bump stops and achieve the length I wanted. I believe the arms are around 19" eye to eye now up front and 17" in the rear. Rear bar is slightly longer than the front by about 4", so this should leave a higher spring rate in the rear by a small margin. Hopefully this allows the rear end to break loose and give me a small amount of oversteer.

The steering feels amazing on the road and the Jeep drives like a sports car now. It's a fantastic ride. A new valving job, 2-3" lower ride height, and V8 power should make this Jeep a whole new vehicle. The steering is still the old PSC box with tie rod, I don't have the time to devote to the new steering system yet. I'll dive into it this winter.

Unfortunately, I'm burnt out on wheeling and wrenching. I still enjoy making things, but I just don't have the drive to put this thing on a trailer and drive to the trails right now. I hate the off camber trail systems and find myself wanting more desert, open rocks, and go-fast stuff. I may not touch the Jeep much until KOH 2018. We'll see.

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Couple more shots of it outside. I like the rear corner lines the more I see them.

I'll be kayaking and camping this weekend instead of wheeling. Maybe the weekend after, we'll see. Like I said, just burnt out on wrenching all the time and the constant maintenance, fuel, and parts purchases. I'll tinker on this thing all winter and see how I feel in February.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:17 am 
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Guess it's time to update this, huh? How many days until KOH? 50? Hah! In my typical style I started a big project on the Jeep with 2 months until KOH.

Started off as a simple 5.3 LS swap then I decided I wanted to upgrade and make things easier for myself. Bank account never stood a chance!

Overview of parts used:

Engine (2002 LM7):
LS1 intake, TB, injectors, rail
Goat Built LS TC pump and alternator brackets
PSC TC ps pump, 5.5" pulley
Truck 5.3 Alternator
F body water pump and balancer
Knock sensor delete
Gucci valley cover and valve covers
truck pan, for now, swap to F body later

4L60E
Art Carr winters shifter
Novak 4L60E to D300 kit with VSS

Exhaust
Speed Engineering block hugger headers
(these are nicer than you'd imagine and work perfectly)
Vibrant 2.5 to 3 merge collector
Race Venom 250 muffler to dump

Harness and Electrical
PSI standalone harness
LT1swap.com Tune (for now)
Android tablet and Wifi puck (TBD)

Fuel
TJ pump, regulator disabled
Corvette regulator, for returnless rails
JEGS AN6 fittings, no plastic clips
Braided AN6 lines
Using existing 5/16 hard line, we'll see if it's a restriction


After learning and going through this, I would have bought a 6.0 LQ4 short block, used LS3 heads and intake, mild cam, and sourced a 4L65E, maybe a 6L80E with standalone controller if I could. I would have just bought the PSI harness and gone from there. Buy new covers, sensors, blah blah blah. If I want more power out of this setup, I'll rip out the 5.3 and throw in said 6.0. Still a very cool swap and I ended up purchasing a lot more parts than I usually do but it feels nice to bolt things up and focus on the cool parts of the build like making exhaust and lowering the Jeep 2".

Pics-

Started off ditching the hood, wheels, tires, and pulling the shocks to rest the jeep on bumps. Pulled the winch, headlights, light bar, and radiator. Then pulled the power steering components, hoses, belts, etc..

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Face down, ass up :mrgreen:

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And ripped the whole damn thing out, sliding it along plastic on the crossmembers to keep it all safe and secure. Worked really well.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:23 am 
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All of this progress is on Instagram sooner, @DukeEngineeringSolutions if you want quicker updates.

Carcass remains

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Plasma cutter made quick work of the mounts. Ground and flapped smooth. Easy as butter. The used Dave's Customs LS mounts for TJ and they fit well and made positioning super easy. I ordered on Black Friday and received Wednesday. Also got their vacuum nipple for the brake booster and the oil pan sensor plug. Worth every penny.

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Ready to drop in. Not shown are the super bling valve covers!

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Nestled in place. Super low, very good for CoG, truck pan is just below frame line. I'll swap to a F body pan later. Exhaust will run under the pan into the Y.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:32 am 
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That mostly brings the thread up to speed. Working on the exhaust this weekend. All 304 stainless, 2.5" into 3.0" just past the bellhousing area. Should fit nicely. Hoping to have a single piece driveline as well.

Couple views of the headers, placement, fitment, and room (or lack thereof):

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Note the steering shaft mount is gone - this has to be modified or remade. I'll be moving it over to avoid the exhaust.

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View from the housing - it's tight. I'll need to bend the upper link. Tape measure is currently upper link path.

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Note the tape measure (upper link) and driveline will be below that, nearly touching the bellhousing and block. I'll be massaging a few things, I think. Upper link mount will need to be moved to the driver's side about 1.5".

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Updated brackets for upper link mount (ends will be bent over) and new coilover mount at the axle. Much cleaner, simpler, easier to use.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 9:10 am 
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Soy una gran cosa
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Nice! :rock: Looking forward to seeing it in action in a few weeks.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 10:05 pm 
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Fantastic-looking build, overall!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 9:51 am 
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Just saw these! Sorry fellas!

JB wrote:
Nice! :rock: Looking forward to seeing it in action in a few weeks.


Thank you, nearly done and have everything wrapped up. Didn't finish all the mods I wanted to do but it should be a decent runner for the week. I'll be sure to look over the Race Tractor too when we get down there!

JuneBerk wrote:
Fantastic-looking build, overall!


Thank you very much, she has a fair amount of "oops" and "fawk it" in her veins but I try to keep the work clean most of the time. I usually go back and redo everything at least once so it ends up great in the end. :bang: :roflmao:

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:16 am 
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Well I guess I should update this since it's been cruising around the Hammers for a week :mrgreen:

KOH week recap - we preran ~50 miles of the race course desert section and a few rock sections with no trouble other than rear shocks being too small. We followed the 4506 POR car and the Jeep did better than expected for a shake down.

Jeep is running great, no major issues except a leaky passenger's axle seal. I'll look into that more soon. Seems to be the overarching issue of my entire build. The Jeep has been lowered about 4" in front and 2" in the rear. I'll bring the rear down a bit more once I swap to 2.5 shocks in the rear. I'm blowing through travel at the moment. I'll probably put my 2.0 Fox bumps back there in the meantime since I'm barely using them in the front. The Winter's shifter was awesome, I need to adjust the linkage after bending the lever arm to clear my driveline. Super stoked on the new layout of the shifters, it was a breeze to use.

I wish I would have swapped to a LS sooner. The power is awesome! Just whipping it around my driveway is a blast. Steering is a little slow, as to be expected with a big ram and big bore box. I'll dive into the steering in the next month or so to test a few theories I have. One will be revisiting the disabled power steering box and DE ram. It was smooth and fast, so I'd like to make that work if possible.

For those asking about the sway bars - they're awesome. Super stable Jeep, especially at speed. It just feels planted. ZERO BUMP STEER! Finally have the geometry correct and this thing will do 50+ in the dirt easily with the 2.0 coilovers and two fingers on the steering wheel. I even let go of the wheel to throw on my dust mask and it didn't move at all. Very happy with the stability of the Jeep. I did lose a sway bar arm on the race course prerun due to a lock collar coming loose but it went back on easily and we continued.

Bluetooth Tablet Gauges - SUCK! EDIT: I had a defective unit. Work pretty well now.

A few vendors I'd like to mention:

PAC Racing Springs

These guys gave us a military discount, had the springs I wanted, and were super cool. I'll be going to them again for my 2.5s. Very helpful and patient.

Goat Built

Center console/Winter's shifter mount is very cool. Love the cup holders. Need to add a piece for 32oz Nalgene sized holders. The LS Accessory mounts could use work on the instructions and I wasn't sent the correct hardware. Drew made it right and gave me a big discount on the center console.

PSI LS Harnesses

Aside from having some connectors too long or too short and sometimes in a weird spot on the engine itself, it all worked very well. I was happy with the customer support and the help they gave. These harnesses mount the PCM in the cab and mine is at the kickwell, which is out of the way and protected. I really like these, it was so simple to wire up. Jeep started on the first key turn.

Poly Performance

These guys are my favorite vendor, hands down. Awesome service, great knowledge of everything I've asked from shocks to shifters, they're great. Big props to these guys for supporting us and giving us a straight answer with good turnaround times. All my orders go through them first. These dudes rock.

Tactical Recovery Equipment

TRE has fantastic winch rope and soft shackles with some super stretchy tug ropes. Used these many times and they're high quality with excellent function. Wouldn't use anyone else.

Advance Adapters

My 4L60E to Dana 300 kit was complete with decent instructions. Some of the bolts are hard to access to attach the adapter but everything went together well and the VSS was easy to setup. No issues.

Speed Engineering Headers

These block hugger headers are well made and thick. I didn't think a China made header for $150 would be worth anything but damn these are a good product. Thick flanges, thick primaries - thicker than Hooker. The collectors are undersized, so I cut those off, but otherwise a good product. I should have ditched the studs and went with ARP bolts, so I'll have to do that sometime.

Black Widow Exhaust

I used their Venom 250 3" muffler and would definitely do it again. Jeep sounds like a racecar at full throttle but nice and mellow at idle. Might have to throw one of the 300 venoms on the Raptor 6.2L.

LT1swap.com

Good base tune but kind of rich. Fast turnaround for $80. It will get you going but ultimately you'll have to find another tune.


If I think of any more I'll add them. I'll update this thread soon with pics and tech once I get time.

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Last edited by gtxracer on Sun Jul 08, 2018 1:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 10:35 am 
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Couple updates for the build for people following that. I'll try to keep these in order.

I used 1.75x.120 tubing to make my motor mounts and 3/16 plate for a gusset. The gusset also acts as the steering bushing mount. Used the plasma to make this in about 10 minutes. Love that Hypertherm!

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I then nestled the 5.3 into place, headers, intake, blah blah blah. I reused my Griffin 24x19 radiator and it works very well to cool this rig, even with an open shroud. The Volvo fan on high cooled it almost too quickly. I'll be moving the fan to automatic operation via the PCM. For now it's on a 3 position toggle switch.

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For my exhaust, I cut off the 2.25" collector mains and made them a full 2.5". I used a Vibrant 2.5 to 3 collector merge and it's a fantastic piece. Worth the time and money to just buy this instead of making one. If I had more time I'd love to make one but it was very nice to just chop up tube and tack in place. I used all 304 stainless. If I was to do it again I'd buy a small TIG machine just for small aluminum jobs and stainless exhaust. It's on the list for sure. Exhaust sounds very good though!

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A picture mid-build during late January. Thrash sessions every night after work until 11-12pm. Burning that oil. Dropped the rig down 4".

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Rear shock mounts that are modular and swappable for different length shocks. Pretty neat. Still need to clean it up and make a new one for the 2.5 shock bodies but it's awesome to just unbolt them and add a new plate. Also shown are 3D printed carbon fiber nylon line holders. I thought I grabbed a picture of these in place but guess not. I'll grab one eventually to show how clean they made the trans cooler lines. Very happy with these and very tough. Front bushings for sway bar are also 3D printed!

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Final resting place for the battery and 12" Uni air filter. This thing had ZERO problems in the dust, it's still ready for more action. Won't have to clean it much, which is exactly what I wanted. Previous battery support tubes will be cut off soon.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 10:51 am 
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Now for some tech.

First off - the 700R4 and the 4L60E are essentially the same trans but the 4L60E is all computer controlled. This means the shift shafts can be swapped to make room for a driveline. You will also probably delete the neutral safety switch (NSS) when you do this but it saves you almost an inch IIRC.

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Fuel setup - there's debate on this, but I am not looking to argue. I had my Jeep at full throttle quite a few times and monitored the fuel rate. I will put a gauge on the rail soon to hush the 58 psi naysayers. No, the early TJs do not put out enough pressure for an LS in stock form. The fuel output inside diameter is far too small. They output about 49 psi from the factory until the new tanks, which I believe is 03/04 model year. Someone correct me if that's not right. The newer TJ pumps can run most LS engines just fine. With my new adapter, now the older TJs can do it too.

Anyway, the actual pump will put out well over 58 psi. I designed and had made a drop-in fuel adapter to use a Corvette external returnless regulator. It works marvelously. It has a 6AN male straight fitting on top for your choice of connection to the regulator or you can use a return type system. You will be required to pull the pump out and drill two holes. One hole will cut off the old fuel nipple that went into the pump output tube. The other hole is your return. I used a fuel cell bulkhead 6AN fitting for the return. Dual o-rings seal the adapter to the fuel pump body while the factory red o-ring is reused off the regulator. You must carefully but forcefully pry the old TJ regulator off the fuel pump body, drill out the pickup tube (this essentially cuts it off) and pop in the adapter after drilling the second hole for the return. Pretty easy, took about 30 minutes total once the fuel tank is available.

This makes your supply a true 5/16" inside diameter - not 1/8" or whatever stock dimension comes out to be. This should support plenty of HP, it's a huge upgrade over stock. I reused my 5/16 factory hard line and ditched the return line. It also lets you replace the TJ fuel pump with a Walbro in the future if you'd like but retain the stock TJ tank and fuel pump body.

Anyway, here's a picture of it installed. I'm hesitant to post the adapter itself but it's 1 piece stainless steel and I also made one out of aluminum. I had no issues at all, I was surprised how easy it went together. Very happy with how this came out. Ground the large black wire from the pump pigtail and supply 12v ignition hot to the large red wire. The other two wires are for your sender. 20 ohms is full, 220 ohms is empty.

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Onto the sector shafts. I reached out to a racer in need for a 300M saginaw sector shaft. We ended up making one in about 6 weeks. It did about 20 miles at KOH with no issues but needed another box with a higher ratio to truly test the limits. That racer will be testing the shaft at the Mint 400. Just a quick photo during manufacturing and testing the splines. These came out very nice, I'll keep updating as we go along.

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I'll give a full KOH update tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 4:38 pm 
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whew, finally
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So much good tech. My heads gonna pop. I've been pondering if 5/16" dia supply out of the pump was enough to supply a healthy LS. My in tank Novak pump setup has 5/16 supply and 1/4 return. I'm running -6 PTFE stainless braided hose for supply/return to/from the motor. I'm only 5/16" supply 1/4" return for approx 2 feet out of the tank. I'm fairly confident the pump pushes hard enough I should be good.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 11:30 am 
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Thanks! If you're worried, I'd run a gauge off the rail and keep an eye on it under hard acceleration. You can also monitor the fuel rate via the OBD2 port and a bluetooth dongle. Download the Torque or OBD Fusion app. They're sending me another dongle, I think mine is defective. I'll try again once the new one arrives.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 10:06 am 
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Well KOH was dusty as fawk. Not sure if it was more dry than usual or if HK didn't water down enough. Never ever camping near Hammertown again. Done with that. Kids ripping their quads through camp at 20mph, side by sizes doing the same at 40, dust everywhere. Can't open up shocks to tune them without covering everything and cleaning the shim packs 30 times. Done with it.

The rear ambers that I mounted did really well for safety. Highly recommend those. Also have four 8.5" Vision X HIDs to mount, stay tuned for those. :mrgreen:

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Last hour of camp, we decided to show the quad kids how you do it. Jumping the berm they were ripping through-

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Race course prerun. Kept up for the most part. I don't have bypasses yet so it was a challenge at some points but overall very happy with how the Jeep did. Moving the bumps to the rear for now will help a lot. These pics are previous to the spring swap that lowered the Jeep.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 10:14 am 
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Couple more pictures; Parked at Backdoor watching the EMC. You can see the amount of dust during the day behind the rig.

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Front end took a beating on those 50 race miles and kept going. At one point I hit a rock with the diff that took out a 3/8" chunk from the housing. Still shocked that's all that happened. Nothing some welding can't fix. The axle seal on the other hand....well, two seals per side doesn't seem to do it. The housing itself might be slightly bent from years of abuse prior to being under my abusive rig. I'll try to straighten the long side a bit. I think I blew out one of the lower ball joints, they were $14 cheapies so I'm not too worried about that. Replace and go.

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Lowered down, sitting much better. Rear to come next.

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I have more pics from backdoor and chocolate thunder that I'll post a little later.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 10:16 am 
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For anyone wondering what fuel fittings and lines I used, here's a quick rundown. If you'd like the actual Excel sheet or a PDF version, send me a PM. I used a bulkhead fitting to pass through the body and it cleaned up the routing quite a bit. I used stainless steel braided 6AN lines for all flex connections and the factory 5/16" hard line with the screw on hardline adapters to convert the end of the 5/16 hard line to 6AN. This is not to be confused with the fuel nipple adapters that screw together. I have the 6AN nuts in the spreadsheet but I ended up not using those and finding these trick little hard line adapters instead of having to flare the fuel line. If anyone needs the part number for those, just ask. I believe I ended up buying one more 90* 6AN elbow, maybe two. Also, Amazon has most of these parts on Prime for a bit more cost than JEGS if you need it quickly. JEGS got all these to me in about 3-4 days however.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:32 pm 
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Amazing how fast a bunch of fittings and some hose can add up. You've built an awesome rig dude. Thanks for sharing this with us, particularly the fuel pump tech. Any update on the 300M sector shaft?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:45 pm 
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gtxracer wrote:
Bluetooth Tablet Gauges - SUCK! They constantly disconnect. Maybe I have a bad dongle but others had similar issues with it. Just not as easy to use as a standalone gauge. I'll probably buy a 5 or 6 gauge set for now and see how I like those. I may just use a tablet for maps in the future. I liked having it for little stuff and I even found a PDC that uses an app for controlling circuits so that may be helpful in the future. For now, the Jeep PDC will stay, I'll clean up the wiring some more, and make a clean dash. I like easy and reliable.



Just wanted to add my experience with the Tablet. I've used my phone in my truck as gauges for a couple years, and didn't have any disconnect problems with the phone, or the Tablet at KOH. I also use two different OBD2 dongles. Although mine are bluetooth and Android. I know Apple uses wifi for their connection.

My only problem was dust, the screen is not well suited for dust or sun glare.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 8:55 am 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Horus wrote:
Amazing how fast a bunch of fittings and some hose can add up. You've built an awesome rig dude. Thanks for sharing this with us, particularly the fuel pump tech. Any update on the 300M sector shaft?


Thank you, I'm much happier with the Jeep now. Yeah, fuel fittings, done the right way, were not cheap. No large risk of a fire or leak though, which is what I want. I'll still have to throw a fuel cell back there but these pumps work well regardless.

The 300M shaft is going through testing. It will have 400 miles on it by mid-March. We may be able to mass produce them and bring cost down a bit. Right now, they're still much cheaper than replacing a box every other race. We've also been asked to make the JK sector shaft, so that should happen as soon as someone sends me one to reverse engineer.

In the meantime, if someone is in desperate need for a 300M saginaw sector shaft, send them my way and we can help them out. :thumbsup:

Paul wrote:
gtxracer wrote:
Bluetooth Tablet Gauges - SUCK! They constantly disconnect. Maybe I have a bad dongle but others had similar issues with it. Just not as easy to use as a standalone gauge. I'll probably buy a 5 or 6 gauge set for now and see how I like those. I may just use a tablet for maps in the future. I liked having it for little stuff and I even found a PDC that uses an app for controlling circuits so that may be helpful in the future. For now, the Jeep PDC will stay, I'll clean up the wiring some more, and make a clean dash. I like easy and reliable.



Just wanted to add my experience with the Tablet. I've used my phone in my truck as gauges for a couple years, and didn't have any disconnect problems with the phone, or the Tablet at KOH. I also use two different OBD2 dongles. Although mine are bluetooth and Android. I know Apple uses wifi for their connection.

My only problem was dust, the screen is not well suited for dust or sun glare.


Apparently I had a bad dongle. They sent me another, for free, in a few days. It's worked well for the limited time I've used it. I have an anti-glare screen protector and a Lifeproof case on my iPad mini running iOS 9.5.3 and OBD Fusion. Works well other than the dongle being hit or miss, that was my only complaint.

I still plan to try the tablet and get it to work but might put in an additional oil pressure and water temp gauge if I continue to have issues.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 1:15 pm 
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Im not a player, I just post alot.
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Sneek peak of the 3M 1080 wrap. I have decals being cut now for the swap meet. I'll have some others soon for a more vintage Jeep look. Pretty excited about the outcome so far, I'll have better pictures soon. Grill and cowl are painted with Satin black. Everything else is wrapped. If I tear up the wrap on the armor I'll paint over it.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:33 am 
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Venus Fly Tard
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 11:41 am
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Location: 47.339672, -122.235166
Vehicle: 2000 XJ Sport- Lifted, geared, locked, caged, armored, raced and rolled.
2008 JK Unlimited Rubi- Lifted, geared, caged, pickin' up groceries, rolled and in the shop.
Dude! That looks tits!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:12 am 
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2KXJ wrote:
Dude! That looks tits!


Thanks! :mrgreen: I should have the last pieces to complete it soon. Lowering the rear 2 more inches and changed out the springs last night. Also adding some 9" VisionX HIDs this week. As pictured, Jeep is sitting 2-3" from bump, links are hitting the frame. Need new rear links that are bent, like John's 4580 car.

New spring rates:

Front Fox 2.0 C/o: 125/250 with 14" coils, 6.5" uptravel, 3" 2.0 Fox bumps
Rear Fox 2.0 C/o: 125/150 with 14" coils, 6.5" uptravel, adding 2.5 3 tube bypasses soon

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:50 am 
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Team Cupcake
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Location: Middle of Effin nowhere...MO
Vehicle: 97 TJ & 97 XJ
Looks good Trevin! A lot of changes/progress since I last saw it. Uh. Mazing.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 6:40 pm 
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Ricky Booby wrote:
Looks good Trevin! A lot of changes/progress since I last saw it. Uh. Mazing.


Thanks bud! Heard you're back in town, welcome back!

Rolled the rig outside to clean up the shop. Painted the grill and cowl to match, satin black. Had some decals cut of my small business and attached them. Posted it up at the Moonshiners swap meet and had a great time talking to new people and old friends.

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Looks high in this pic, I didn't realize the fuel tank is nearly empty and it's leaning to one side since I had the rear sway bar disconnected.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:18 pm 
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Eaton fabricated housing in the works. Long term project, just something to test my SW skills and learn new ones. Also something to test for my new SWAG finger brake and the plasma table that should be here in June. :cool:

Also searching for a pair of 2.5x14 bypasses if anyone has some for sale. Fox or Radflo only though, not cool enough for the Kangs.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 9:18 am 
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Moar updates!

Haven't wheeled since KOH, bums me out. So I'm planning some dunes trips and Cline Butte. Also want to hit Rubicon at the end of summer if I can.

3/4 Link kit is done. Not sure I'll throw it on this rig, I think it will go on the girlfriend's TJ first. That'll be a mild build on 35s with an LS, if it happens.

Started the main light bar for the Vision X lights. Used Motobilt light bar windshield mounts to make it easy for me. These are pretty bright, got a great deal on them (thanks Brandon).

Been driving it a little on the street. I'm looking to eliminate the power steering in the box again to regain some speed. It's not that slow when I'm driving and the RPMs are up, but I can definitely see a big difference at idle. Sometimes even hard to move the tires, I can tell the box is trying to pump fluid but there's just too much volume between the big bore (3.125") PSC box and the 2.25" ID ram. Pump is a 1200X PSC unit, 4.5 GPM at 1600 psi but it's still not enough. I believe the AGR box piston and the PSC piston are nearly identical so I am thinking about swapping pistons. The AGR piston is sectioned for fluid flow to disable the power steering, so I may do that soon.

Also been making these neat little LS pen stands. Super cool and have a bunch left over after I got carried away. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 9:29 am 
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Smoked the 3-4 clutch on this 150 mile-old used 4l60e :lol: Apparently this trans had a rough life. The fluid was decent when I picked it up, I just expected it to last longer. Picked up a new for a good deal. Going to hot swap and go to the dunes. I have a Corvette servo coming. Thought about a shift kit and 3000 stall converter but I'll wait on those. I'll rebuild this '02 4L60E when I have time in the winter. This winter's Jeep project will be much easier than the previous two. Just going to put in bypasses, rear frame, and TLC. Should be easy, right? :roflmao: :mrgreen:

Pics are before and after, same trans (new)

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