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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 6:43 am 
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Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Vehicle: Tee-jay
I like everything that is happening here. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 7:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
JeepStangGuy wrote:
I like the doors, could you use some of the best top soft door latches?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/11147_9001.htm


Thanks! I like those door latches, might have to try those. I didn't have the alignment dialed in, so I would have to rough cut the holes for those. They're about $50 more than I spent on the hot rod latches, so we'll see where this takes me. I honestly like the smooth door look a little more than having an outside handle. But if I add half door uppers, I would need a way to get in! :lol:

Paul wrote:
I like everything that is happening here. :)


Thanks Paul. Hoping to get it all wrapped up soon, maybe this weekend. I'm super stoked to get the steering working perfectly again, it was amazing.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 8:52 am 
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Vehicle: 04 LJ
Look at the Poison spyder trail skins, the holes are slightly bigger to allow for some adjustment of the latch

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 9:31 am 
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
JeepStangGuy wrote:
Look at the Poison spyder trail skins, the holes are slightly bigger to allow for some adjustment of the latch


I'll check that out, thanks! Would be nice to have windows in the winter. I'll steal the girlfriend's half windows and give her my full doors. They've been on borrowed time for years.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:02 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Sway bars are done, fronts had a small bend added to clear the bump stops and achieve the length I wanted. I believe the arms are around 19" eye to eye now up front and 17" in the rear. Rear bar is slightly longer than the front by about 4", so this should leave a higher spring rate in the rear by a small margin. Hopefully this allows the rear end to break loose and give me a small amount of oversteer.

The steering feels amazing on the road and the Jeep drives like a sports car now. It's a fantastic ride. A new valving job, 2-3" lower ride height, and V8 power should make this Jeep a whole new vehicle. The steering is still the old PSC box with tie rod, I don't have the time to devote to the new steering system yet. I'll dive into it this winter.

Unfortunately, I'm burnt out on wheeling and wrenching. I still enjoy making things, but I just don't have the drive to put this thing on a trailer and drive to the trails right now. I hate the off camber trail systems and find myself wanting more desert, open rocks, and go-fast stuff. I may not touch the Jeep much until KOH 2018. We'll see.

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Couple more shots of it outside. I like the rear corner lines the more I see them.

I'll be kayaking and camping this weekend instead of wheeling. Maybe the weekend after, we'll see. Like I said, just burnt out on wrenching all the time and the constant maintenance, fuel, and parts purchases. I'll tinker on this thing all winter and see how I feel in February.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:17 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
Guess it's time to update this, huh? How many days until KOH? 50? Hah! In my typical style I started a big project on the Jeep with 2 months until KOH.

Started off as a simple 5.3 LS swap then I decided I wanted to upgrade and make things easier for myself. Bank account never stood a chance!

Overview of parts used:

Engine (2002 LM7):
LS1 intake, TB, injectors, rail
Goat Built LS TC pump and alternator brackets
PSC TC ps pump, 5.5" pulley
Truck 5.3 Alternator
F body water pump and balancer
Knock sensor delete
Gucci valley cover and valve covers
truck pan, for now, swap to F body later

4L60E
Art Carr winters shifter
Novak 4L60E to D300 kit with VSS

Exhaust
Speed Engineering block hugger headers
(these are nicer than you'd imagine and work perfectly)
Vibrant 2.5 to 3 merge collector
Race Venom 250 muffler to dump

Harness and Electrical
PSI standalone harness
LT1swap.com Tune (for now)
Android tablet and Wifi puck (TBD)

Fuel
TJ pump, regulator disabled
Corvette regulator, for returnless rails
JEGS AN6 fittings, no plastic clips
Braided AN6 lines
Using existing 5/16 hard line, we'll see if it's a restriction


After learning and going through this, I would have bought a 6.0 LQ4 short block, used LS3 heads and intake, mild cam, and sourced a 4L65E, maybe a 6L80E with standalone controller if I could. I would have just bought the PSI harness and gone from there. Buy new covers, sensors, blah blah blah. If I want more power out of this setup, I'll rip out the 5.3 and throw in said 6.0. Still a very cool swap and I ended up purchasing a lot more parts than I usually do but it feels nice to bolt things up and focus on the cool parts of the build like making exhaust and lowering the Jeep 2".

Pics-

Started off ditching the hood, wheels, tires, and pulling the shocks to rest the jeep on bumps. Pulled the winch, headlights, light bar, and radiator. Then pulled the power steering components, hoses, belts, etc..

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Face down, ass up :mrgreen:

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And ripped the whole damn thing out, sliding it along plastic on the crossmembers to keep it all safe and secure. Worked really well.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:23 am 
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Location: OlyWA
Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
All of this progress is on Instagram sooner, @DukeEngineeringSolutions if you want quicker updates.

Carcass remains

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Plasma cutter made quick work of the mounts. Ground and flapped smooth. Easy as butter. The used Dave's Customs LS mounts for TJ and they fit well and made positioning super easy. I ordered on Black Friday and received Wednesday. Also got their vacuum nipple for the brake booster and the oil pan sensor plug. Worth every penny.

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Ready to drop in. Not shown are the super bling valve covers!

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Nestled in place. Super low, very good for CoG, truck pan is just below frame line. I'll swap to a F body pan later. Exhaust will run under the pan into the Y.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:50 pm
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Vehicle: 4500ish TJ, 2013 Raptor SCrew
That mostly brings the thread up to speed. Working on the exhaust this weekend. All 304 stainless, 2.5" into 3.0" just past the bellhousing area. Should fit nicely. Hoping to have a single piece driveline as well.

Couple views of the headers, placement, fitment, and room (or lack thereof):

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Note the steering shaft mount is gone - this has to be modified or remade. I'll be moving it over to avoid the exhaust.

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View from the housing - it's tight. I'll need to bend the upper link. Tape measure is currently upper link path.

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Note the tape measure (upper link) and driveline will be below that, nearly touching the bellhousing and block. I'll be massaging a few things, I think. Upper link mount will need to be moved to the driver's side about 1.5".

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Updated brackets for upper link mount (ends will be bent over) and new coilover mount at the axle. Much cleaner, simpler, easier to use.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 9:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:08 am
Posts: 8080
Location: Way up North.
Vehicle: '51 Power Wagon
Nice! :rock: Looking forward to seeing it in action in a few weeks.

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