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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:58 pm
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Location: Anacortes, WA
Vehicle: '69 Bronco
I've got an '07 Escalade ESV and want to keep the trans fluid cooler when towing over passes in summer months. Keep everything in place and add a remote cooler? Replace the current cooler with a bigger unit? Something else I haven't mentioned? Initially, I've been thinking of just getting a trans cooler that's meant for the 6.6L coal burning trucks, as it's bigger and will bolt right up in the same place. Let me know what you think. If you have an idea, recommending specific parts is appreciated.

Baller

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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 7:13 pm 
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Location: North Bend
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I am always a fan of factory bigger cooler that bolt in stock locations. Simple upgrade and looks stock.

I know the older F250/F350 trucks you could bolt the new style bigger cooler right in place of the smaller older coolers.

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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 10:03 pm 
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whew, finally
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
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Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Not familiar with your stock system. Does it use just the one cooler up in front, ahead of the condenser? Installing another large stacked plate type cooler in series with what is currently there will add considerable cooling capacity, but be cautioned and read further down for more info on what not to do.

If the trans fluid is sent through a heat exchanger in the radiator 1st and then out to an aux cooler up front, then just put a larger aux cooler up front in place of what’s there. This configuration is pretty typical and I'm betting it's how yours is laid out.

Stacked plate type cooler is most effective, but also most restrictive. A physically larger cooler will restrict flow less. More capillaries for the fluid to flow. It's important not to restrict flow through the coolers too much, or pressure goes up too far, the converter gets shoved hard into the flex plate and then smokes the crankshaft thrust bearing. That's one caution. The other caution is do not over-cool the fluid. The fluid temp needs to get up to just below 200 deg F on your trips but not more than that, except for an occasional short duration spike in temp. But you really don't want to see pan fluid go above 200 F for long at all. Shortens the life of the trans considerably.

Avoid remote cooler if possible. It’s better to use the air-stream in front of the rig for your cooling rather than depend on an electric fan on a remote located cooler. If u must use remote cooler do to space constraints, then do so, but really try to avoid this.

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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 10:49 am 
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Thanks for the replies. Here's what I've found and am starting to lean towards. That and this mounting kit. Let me know what you think. It states the bypass is a 180deg unit. Would you consider that too low?

Baller

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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 3:48 pm 
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whew, finally
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2013 10:46 am
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Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
Baller wrote:
Thanks for the replies. Here's what I've found and am starting to lean towards. That and this mounting kit. Let me know what you think. It states the bypass is a 180deg unit. Would you consider that too low?

Baller


Yes that’s a good trans cooler, but you better make sure the trans lines route the fluid through a radiator integrated heat exchanger first. The bypass till 180 is correct. You want the trans fluid temp to rise up near 180-200 deg f as fast as possible and then be solidly maintained there irregardless of load. Your trans is designed to operate best at that temp. Mounting kit looks good to me. I’ve never been so lucky to use a premade kit.

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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 1:17 pm 
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Just ordered the goods and now I've got more questions. I'm thinking about installing it and wondering about the increased fluid I'll need to add due to the lager cooler. When I remove the current cooler, that will result in some lost fluid. When I put the new cooler on, I'll need to add more fluid than was lost due to it's increased size/volume. I'm OK with guessing and checking fluid levels and getting it all right. The question I have is with the bypass. The bypass won't open until the temp is up and won't fill the cooler until then. Am I going to need to install the thing, load the rig up and drive up a long steep grade to get the bypass to open so it will open the bypass and fill the cooler with fluid? I've never had to do this and maybe I'm thinking of it wrong. Let me know.

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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2019 4:13 am 
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Location: Puyallup
Vehicle: 1978 CJ5 Getting stretched, rear linked and LS powered
You're gonna need to get the fluid up to temp, trigger the bypass, check and add as necessary till it reads right on the dipstick. That's standard ops for this type of deal and really the only sure way to get it right.

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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2019 6:48 am 
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I ordered everything and have been doing a little more research and looking. I came across this guy that states the cooler, to work properly, needs to be mounted ports up. He starts talking about it at 0:30. Anyone know anything about this? From everything else I've seen, this is the only guy I've who's mounting it this way but, he makes a good argument for it. Let me know.

Baller


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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2019 2:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:58 pm
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Location: Anacortes, WA
Vehicle: '69 Bronco
Baller wrote:
I ordered everything and have been doing a little more research and looking. I came across this guy that states the cooler, to work properly, needs to be mounted ports up. He starts talking about it at 0:30. Anyone know anything about this? From everything else I've seen, this is the only guy I've who's mounting it this way but, he makes a good argument for it. Let me know.

Baller



Never mind. :bang:

Baller

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2019 5:29 pm 
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Little update on this.

Before:

Image

After:
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 6:33 am 
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