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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:23 pm 
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Recently I resealed the top of my injection pump on my 91 Dodge diesel tow rig. On the way down to take the emissions test a small leak turned into a solid stream of fuel. Needless to say the fine folks at the ECS would not perform their test on a truck with such an enthusiastic leak forcing me to fix (and hence modify)my truck before I could renew mt tabs.

The "366" governor spring is a very popular modification to the VE pumped Cummins crowd, and for good reason. Removing the pump top opens up access to this spring so it makes sense to install it while you reseal the top. The spring itself runs around $20. A stock VE pump will fuel until around 2800 rpm before falling flat on its face. Usable power drops off around 2500 or so. With the 366 installed the truck will pull hard to around 3200 rpm! It will also make more power in the lower rpm range leading up to its new maximum, all for $20.

The following will be a step by step how to for fixing a leaky pump top and installing the 366 spring. Please hold your posts until I have completed the writeup.



This is the VE injection pump found on 89-93 Dodge diesel trucks. it is almost too simple in its operation and will last as long as the motor. A $40 seal kit fixes everything that could go wrong with it excluding physical destruction. Note my little catch can device. the leak often comes from the vent nipple. This contraption worked great while the leak was very small.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:37 pm 
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The first step is to remove this banjo bolt from this fitting. Be careful as there are two washers on either side of the fitting. Once removed the four bolts holding down the cover can come out.

Image

Directly below that we see the rubber vent tube. Below that there is another banjo bolt and fitting. I believe this is the fuel return line. It needs to be removed.

Image

The "AFC" cover removed. Mark the rubber diaphragm with a sharpie to indicate its alignment before removal.

Image

The fuel cone is bolted to the other side of this diaphragm. Pull straight up on the nut with a pair of pliers to remove it.

Here is the fuel cone. Mine is a Dynamite Diesel "Power Pin". The stock piece resembles a cone. You can see where the Fuel Pin rides against the "cone".

Image

Image

Remove the AFC spring.

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:39 pm 
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Okay people, I ran out of time. I will complete this writeup tomorrow before I head out to the WoW meeting. Sorry to leave you all hanging.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:39 pm 
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White Doug
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Cool write-up so far :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 9:53 pm 
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Horus wrote:
Okay people, I ran out of time. I will complete this writeup tomorrow before I head out to the WoW meeting. Sorry to leave you all hanging.

The suspense is killing me :lurker

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:44 pm 
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I got all the photos uploaded and resized. I'll finish this tomorrow morning. It is going to get very detailed as I took 48 usable images start to finish.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 5:40 am 
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Before I continue on I want to make clear to anyone reading this that I am not a professional mechanic in any way. Before I tore into my injection pump I had done plenty of reading into the subject. All I knew going into this is was that the thing with Bosch cast into it fires oil into the engine so I can go wheelin. There may be terms I am getting wrong here and there. I just did it and recorded everything.

So, where was I?


Once the AFC cover is removed and fuel cone is removed it is time to remove the throttle arms. There are two main parts to it and the first is pictured removed below ( Note the last pic in the previous post for what the throttle linkage assembly looks like.)

Image


Note there are two washers between the above arm and the lower arm. When this goes back together the smaller washer fits inside the larger one. Just a note. The only thing that was hooked to the upper arm was a throttle return spring.

The throttle linkage assembly is held down by a hollow cap screw of the 8mm variety, shown below.

Image


Below is a shot of the lower main throttle linkage arm. BEFORE you remove this arm note its position on the throttle shaft! This is very important. Apparently being even one spot off will cause the truck to run like hell, if at all.

Image

I took several photos of mine before I pulled it. Here is my best one.

Image


As you pull it off be ready to bring the main throttle return spring with it. Here is everthing you get with the removal of the lower main throttle linkage arm.

Image


I neglected to photograph or note for myself at all how the plastic spring cup went against the pump body under the linkage. Be assured it can only fit one way and the return spring is easily drug around the throttle shaft to hook back into the arm with a pair of needle nose pliers upon reassembly.

With the linkage removed we are ready to remove the pump top. Here comes another big tip...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 5:57 am 
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Here is the top of the injection pump.

Image

Here you can see two of the four 5mm allen head screws holding down the pump top. In order to access the two screws to the right you must remove the idle and full throttle stops on both sides of the pump top. You can clearly see the throttle limiting screw with two nuts on one end in the above photo. The idle stop is behind the pump and requires a special tool to remove. Even with the tool you get like 1/64th of a turn at a time. The best part is getting the settings back where they were we the thing goes back together. F all that noise.

Image

Front and center above is the throttle stop screw. See the pump top screw underneath it? The solution is a 5mm Ballnose Allen T handle. With the ball nose you can remove both the two burried Allens holding down the pump top without having to touch the idle and full throttle stop screws. No special tools or time spent slowly removing two pieces of all-thread. Thats a win in my book.

The near right side Allen will come out with the ballnose. The far right Allen (under the idle stop screw) will not come all the way out. This is okay as it was the last one I removed and stayed with the top until it went back together anyway.

We are now ready to pull the top off...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 6:19 am 
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The four 5mm bolts are removed and the pump top is ready to come off.

Image

You can pull it up and toward yourself just fine until it is positioned as shown above. See that little lever with a foot on it? That is pushing against the fuel screw (some call it the "Full Power screw", whatever floats your loaf) and when you first lift up on the top you will feel that pressure. No need to worry, just pull it up half an inch or so and lay it as pictured above.

The spring you see is the governor spring we will be replacing. Under the top it is connected to the throttle arm, no biggie. At the pump body end it is connected to the "Top Hat" assembly shown below after it is removed.

Image

Now you can get into trouble.

Image

The Top Hat is three separate pieces and will try to escape if they are not retained as you remove the governor spring to free the pump top.

To do this I put my right middle finger on the back of the Top Hat and used my thumb to hold the pump top against the pump body so it would not fall. This freed my left hand to come in with the needle nose pliers and unclip the governor spring. It was a very easy operation to perform once I knew what had to be done.

Do not lose the top hat assembly. It is not reproduced by anybody and nobody wants to sell just parts of a VE pump they can sell whole.

Image

The pump top can now be removed.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 7:03 am 
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With the pump top off I decided to clean it off with brake clean. This is when I discovered the true test of manhood that is spraying brake cleaner into your eyes. I laughed while I cried. At first I tried to ride it out like when you stand up too fast and feel light headed.

Then I wanted to wash my eyes with water but was not sure if that was a good idea. We've all seen the warnings on chemical dispensors warning against adding water, right? Eventually I washed my face and eyes with water. While it did provide great relief it did not do much for the Gratefull Dead Vision, particularly out of the left eye I still deal with. I've gotten used to it though everyday life things like correctly reading traffic lights is a challenge.

With the pump top in a clean work area we are ready to reseal it. Note the rebuild kit below. Make sure you get the Bosch kit.

Image

There is an arm inside the pump top we need to remove. It moves against the fuel pin and pivots against a pin running through the body. This pin is held in place by two steel ball bearings, one on each side of the body pictured below.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 7:12 am 
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Using a small punch and hammer, tap against one of the steel balls to push the opposing ball out of the body on the other side. Do not lose it when it pops out. Once one is out flip the body over and tap against the pin to push the other ball out. Then the pivot pin can be removed as well as the arm inside the body.

Image

Here is a closer shot of these components.

Image

Inside the pump top with the arm removed we can see the fuel pin. This is what rides against the fuel cone (Power Pin) we removed earlier.

Image


To remove the fuel pin this plug type bolt needs to be removed.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 7:25 am 
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With the plug bolt removed the fuel pin can be pulled out. Be carfull not to nick or gouge the pin when you draw it out of it's bore. I used very small needle nose pliers and only grasped the very end of the fuel pin.

Some dentist style automotive picks are needed to do this work. Once the pin is pulled out you need to remove an Allen style threaded retainer followed by an O-ring and it's retainer.

Image

Another view.

Image

The last piece is the part that provides the bore for the pin to ride in the pump top body. It does not need to be removed but I did anyway.

Image

It went right back in.


Here we see the fuel pin along with the old and new O-ring. Note the new O-ring on the right is much more plump than the one on the left. This old O-rig was THE cause of my fuel pump leak. The white cloth seen here is what I used to finely polish the fuel pin. It must be perfect or the new O-ring will not seal. This is why not nicking it during removal is so important.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 7:47 am 
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Use STP assembly lube to lubricate everything as it goes back together. The O-ring can be slid onto the fuel pin along with the gold colored retainer and dropped into the bore as one piece. The Allen retainer is screwed in tight along with the plug bolt. If you down the hole where the fuel cone rides you will see the other end of the fuel pin sticking into the bore.

Reinstall the fuel pin arm and tap it's little steel ball bearings back in place. I used red locktight to kida seal them in place. Many people have not done this and have never had a leak.

Image

The throttle arm will just slide out right now allowing you to easily replace the O-ring that is just under the throttle linkage arm in the bore when the top is assembled. More on this in a minute.

Before the top goes back on the fuel screw must be backed out. Remember the "foot" I pointed out when we removed the Top Hat? It must go in front of the fuel screw, not be smashed by it.

Image

I took a close photo before I pulled it out so I could see how deep it was.

Image

When I removed the fuel screw is when tragedy struck. The tamper collar just up and fell off! It was terrible.

Image

The threads were kinda chewed so I used a cut off wheel to cut a slot into a normal metric nut to turn it into a thread chaser. Two more nuts were double nutted on the other end so I could hold the screw while I chased the threads with my new chaser in a pair of vice grips.

Image

Image

Image

For a good baseline I put the screw back in to the same depth it was before. I double nutted the the fuel screw in place of the tamper cap so I could pull it back out, install the pump top and screw it back in to exactly where it was when I started.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:07 am 
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The 366 spring. :rock:

Image

This spring has an absolutely amazing effect on the power output of the VE Cummins.

My last photo deals with installing it along with the pump top. Everything I read had me clipping the spring onto the throttle shaft inside the top. Then while holding the top right over the body you are supposed to grab it with needle nose pliers and clip it to the top hat assembly you are holding in place with your third arm.

I found my own way which turned out to be very easy and simple. I hooked the throttle shaft to the spring and to the Top Hat in the pump body, like so...

Image
Then I slid the throttle shaft back into it's bore in the pump top as I laid the pump top back onto the body. Bam!

Again, assembly from here is the opposite of dissassembly. Make sure the throttle arm is indexed exactly the way it was to the throttle shaft. Before you try to push the fuel cone back into the top of the pump look down it's bore. Remember how I said the fuel pin rides against the fuel cone? look down the bore the fuel cone rides in and you might see the end of the fuel pin sticking out into it. Reach in there with a small pick and push it into its bore and out of the fuel cone's bore. It will just move away.

Once the pump is back together prime the lift pump. I felt it build some kind of pressure after a few seconds of pumping.

Have your intake tube OFF of the intake on your turbo and a friend ready with a block of wood or something to choke the motor in the unlikely case your F'ed up bad and the motor tries to run away. This is highly unlikely.

Hit the key.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:27 am 
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My truck fired right up and the idle seemed to be exactly where it used to be. I cleaned up and checked for leaks again. Once I was satisfied I took the truck out for a test drive.

Ho


ly


crap!

I am not exaggerating when I say this spring made my truck one full third faster and more powerful than it was before. I had never seen more than 20 pounds of boost on the gauge. I shot right to 35 psi in third.

Third gear used to be good to 30-35ish at most. If I really needed to (towing up a long steep grade) I could push it to 40 but only to make getting into fourth possible. The truck was done making power at 30 mph in third.

Now the truck will easily pull hard to 45 mph with 50-55ish being the new 40. Very nice. First gear is now relevent and second will go almost to 30 mph where third used to lose power! The truck pulls harder down low as well. I can't wait to tow with it.

Since doing this I failed the emissions test (99 opacity out of 55 allowed) only to detune and pass it the next day (4 opacity out of 55 allowed.) when I got home with the new tabs on I put the fuel screw in three solid turns. Four words best describe what that did.

Like A Raped Ape. :lol:

I backed it back out a turn and a half or so to keep temps in check. ;)

Next on the list for my truck will be a low pressure 2nd gen piston style lift pump upgrade. After that I will convert the steering from the stock push-pull style to a crossover setup for the cost of one high steer arm and a drag link. Around that time I will also be modifying my front wheel openings and flairs to accept the 35 inch tires with 4 inches less lift. Stay tuned...

(Post away)

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:46 am 
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Very nice write-up Mike. I can't wait to do this someday :smt077: :rock:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:44 am 
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I wonder if this is what the older mid-90s Cummins ISB powered motorhomes need to make them as good or better than the comparable gas models of that era.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:26 am 
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:rock:

I can't wait to see what your truck looks like lowered down a bit, and having extra power never hurts.

-Alex

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:27 pm 
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Awesome man! You have a street rod again, but this one is a diesel powered pickup. :smokin:

Can't wait to see it lowered down a little bit. The stance will be perfect.



Oh, and I'll be the first to vote that this makes it to Pat's next Thirsty Thursday gathering so it can hit the dyno. :smt077:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 3:19 pm 
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I didn't think he had a diesel dyno, or maybe he just doesn't have one that can do torque?

-Alex

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:52 pm 
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Ba-Riedo wrote:
I didn't think he had a diesel dyno, or maybe he just doesn't have one that can do torque?

-Alex

John M dynoed his Duramax there a year or tow ago :dunno:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 11:13 am 
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Ba-Riedo wrote:
I didn't think he had a diesel dyno, or maybe he just doesn't have one that can do torque?

-Alex



They didn't have an AWD dyno, but I believe they have one installed now. :dunno:

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